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If it works as intended, good job on resourcefulness.

Powermaster, no problems with my single wire unit

In the top pic, there is another ground wire that I ran directly to the dash frame. In both pics, you can see where I added a small washer under the head of the board mount screw to mount it tight and grounding it to the cluster case. Also got rid of those speed nuts and installed real ones...

Very possible it's not. I added washers under the screws of the circuit boards on mine. Even tight, there was play between the board and cluster base. That is how they ground. Then the cluster assembly grounds to the dash via the mount screws. I added extra ground wires from the cluster...

Have you cleaned the metal contacts of the bulb sockets? The circuit board grounds to the gauge case, I fixed mine by adding extra grounds to where the gauge case mounts to the dash.

Will the car start by putting the key in ON and jumping the starter relay?

The fusible link comes from the starter relay to the firewall and sometimes has a colored tab saying fusible link and it goes directly to the amp meter once through the firewall. If the meter is working you have current up to that point. If the fusible link or the amp meter goes, it kills...

As stated, check grounds and connections at the battery as well as the relay. Check the fusible link, are you still running the factory amp meter? If so I recommend the amp meter bypass mod. Myself I had to replace the switch at the key, removed it and checked for continuity with a meter when...

I did, i have 3 grounds now! Two to the top plate and one on the lower to the frame itself. Man did that make a difference. Now i'd love to upgrade my headlights. Guess I have to do some research on that and of course as money allows. Thanks agai for all the help

Extra ground wires, cleaned all contact areas of bulbs and studs, cleaned all lenses and bulbs internally and external. All lights work quite well now.

Pulled connector off of dimmer and found a damaged wire connector. Looked like it was never properly engaged and had been arcing. Also the dimmer switch had a auxilary tab for a ground wire. Ran a new ground wire and now most of the lights work lol! The most important one to me for right now...

Panel is still currently installed. If the panel isn't chassis grounded, then where at? At work currently, have to check this and 67dart273 recommendations when I get home.

I probably will download and print off a manual. My car has lots of little electrical gremlins. My wiring under the dash looks like frankenstein, all cobbled and spliced together. Unrelated to the dash lights, when I was looking under there yesterday trying to figure out the problem; my arm...

Thanks for the breakdown. Will check after work tomorrow

68 Plymouth barracuda, rallye dash. Dimmer switch was replaced years ago, head lights still work, but dash lights do not. All fuses intact, all bulbs in the twist in inserts good. Where is the voltage regulator located and how does the dash ground?

No problems with the 8388 on my 318. Have no experience on the e curve style. Granted my 318 is in no way a 500hp small block, but it was probably the best upgrade to my motor so far

Hook it up to ported and try it out and drive it. Only takes a few minutes and can be easily swapped back to full manifold if you wish. But the msd instructions do say hook to ported vacuum.

Keep that 8388, it's a good distributor. You just need to fine tune it to work for your combo. What do you have for a motor combo? I'm running an 8388 on a 68 318 with stock cam, holley 670 and headers. Initial is 15 degrees, 21 degree bushing, 2 light silver springs on 91 octane. Vacuum is...

Could try ported vacuum instead of manifold vacuumand see if it puts vacuum timing where he wants

Where do you have the vacuum hooked to? Ported vacuum as per instructions? On a holley it's on the right side of the metering block above the throttle plates

You can run the 8388 with the box or without. Instructions are pretty straight forward and can download from the msd website.

Verify plug wires are in order. 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 then verify timing with vacuum disconnected and plugged with a timing light. If you think your damper or timing chain may have slipped, verify TDC with a piston stop and compare marks on damper to timing tab

I have straight boots on my plug wires with dougs 453 headers, no fitment issues.

Been an a/p mechanic for 14 years now. Used the ewis principles more than once to fix or rebuild an old wire circuit for either my barracuda my s-10

I've got the Ignitor II, simple setup, no problems, the Ignitor III has a rev limiter. That and a new coil does wonders for easy starts.