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I use my car differently than you, primarily a street car that I autocross. As you can imagine, autocross does a good job of stirring the oil on top of several RPM transients over the course of 40-50 seconds. Prior to running a catch can, I would get lots of oil residue in the intake manifold...

Significant difference. You need one of those exhaust valves that open with boost pressure so you can bypass the exhaust.

As the title states, wondering if anyone has installed a Torqstorm supercharger on their G3 swap. If so, can you share some photos?

You used an AJE K-member, correct? Any photos of it installed? I’ve only seen their photos of the components. Just curious to see it on a car.

You need to figure out what analog input the fuel psi is connected to. Use the data log tab at the top. Make sure you are recording that analog input in the Data log Profile editor. After you collect the data, you can open the file with mega log viewer and check out everything that was recorded.

Sounds like you found the problem. I bet the flow curve on those injectors isn't linear when below the specified psi. I would continue to monitor psi, and duty cycle just in case. Good luck!

Here's my opinion, which isn't worth $hit since I have zero experience tuning a turbo combination. Isn't a 210lb injector good for 1200-1500HP? I don't know how much HP your motor makes NA, but let's assume you need to put about 20psi boost in that thing to get anywhere close to that power...

I may be wrong but 32PSI is really low. I’m not boosted and use a corvette regulator/filter and it runs around 58psi. I’ve heard of some efi running 46-48, never 32. Curious why you’re running that.

Just add like 10-15% above 4500 and see what it does. Is fuel psi stable above 4500?

Or at least some 93!

I've never tuned a forced induction car, so I could be talking out my ***. If it were me seeing constant lean conditions, I'd add a ton of fuel to the top of the table above 4500 and back timing to a conservative level, then go for a rip. Data log the run of course, then go back and adjust...

Since you said you were new to this, I'll speak candidly. Slant 6 = boring, no matter what you do to it- IMO they are garbage as previously stated. G3 = lots of challenges but can be overcome now with support from vendors like Holley, TTI, etc. Just getting a G3 in an A body can be a challenge...

Don't waste your time doing anything with that slant 6 other than taking it out and throwing it in the dumpster. The G3 will certainly cost more, but you won't be disappointed with a V8 over the /6. You will be disappointed that the /6 will still be turd after you spend all that money on it.

Good luck. Engine Masters started with a 215HP NA /6 and didn't even make it to 350HP with the TS.

I run the red cherry sensor as well. I had a similar setup as you with the trigger wheel welded to the steel pulley. I originally had just a few tack welds holding it on because I didn't want to add too much unbalanced weight to the pulley. One day I developed a high RPM sync loss on my MS3...

Dang! That thing is sexy! Almost too pretty to put on the racetrack.

I don’t blame you one bit. There are some things I just don’t want to modify. A fuel tank in the trunk is one of them. Dare a call it a pet peeve of mine- a street car with a fuel cell in the trunk. Ugh-bugs the crap out of me. At the end of the day it’s your car so do whatever and sometimes...

That should use the standard GM style TPS. Commonly found on pretty much any LS based engine.

Is that the ebay special 4 barrel throttle body? That's the one I'm using and finding the correct sensors for proved to be a slight challenge since it didn't come with any information. Mine uses a Ford TPS, something from a late 90s explorer. I went to the junk yard and snatched a few and cut...

Makes sense....

I'm not a chassis fabricator by any means, so this may be a dumb question. Shouldn't the adjustment holes on the lower bracket be completely vertical? I've never seen any on an angle like this. Maybe it's the angle of the photo?

Wow! Glad you finally figured this one out. You sure went through a bunch of troubleshooting! Kinda explains the sluggish performance. Small blocks usually run better as an 8 cylinder instead of 6.

Confused as to why you pulled a head for an oil pan leak? Nothing wrong with that cylinder, you haven't even put that engine under a real load.

You shouldn't hear coils clicking. That's likely the coil output finding a path to ground. When I did my initial test, I had the plugs removed and put a ground jumper to the body of the plug. That way I could see the strength of the spark. It was also neat to see how adjusting the dwell changed...

I would recommend this as well. This will help identify if there is a wiring problem for the individual coil, ie; poor ground, bad crimp, loose solder joint, etc. IMO, stock D585 coil should be fine. Lots of guys making 800+HP with stock coils. Just my opinion, not everyone will like it...

My running coil dwell is the same as what you have. I do have a different cranking dwell, but that's irrelevant while its running.

I reviewed my setting compared to yours. Under "Ignition Options/Wheeled Decoder" I have "Ignition Input Capture" set to falling edge. The note shows this setting will correct timing drift. I do recall checking to make sure my timing was stable under varying RPMs with the timing fixed. I'm...

I'm going with a timing problem as well. Have you or the shop verified timing with a light? Doesn't matter what number is in the timing cell if you're off of TDC. Also, I'd look at the timing dwell. If that's too low, the spark will be like that of a Briggs and Stratton 2.5HP. I run the dwell at...

I've never measured it, but probably a credit card thickness. I just made wheel speed sensors for my car and used the DIY hall sensor with the single hole mount. Those instructions say 5mm, which I did end up measuring because the brackets I made are not adjustable. Those worked flawlessly...

From the DIY website. Just connect the resistor across the power and the signal. I ended up embedding mine in my harness to protecting the resistor from breaking. You can put it anywhere that is convenient. If you have some type of connector, it may be easy to just put the resistor on the connector.