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Ha. Had my answer types out and the dog wanted to play tug-of-war, so I came in 2nd. LOL

Steering gear is mounted to the frame rail. Doesn't mount to the k frame.

I just put 1.03 bars in my 68 Bcuda. Had the adjusters backed all the way out and suspension at full drop. The new bars were marked left and right. Car completely off the ground. Put them in, put a jack under the lca and jacked it up to approx mid way of suspension travel, tightened lca pins...

Well, thw left side came apart like it was supposed to, this evening. LOL

SUCESS!! For my lunch break today, I went out and simply pried on the LCA between it and the K frame, since the pin was spinning in the bushing. Slid right off and the benefit is the torsion bar is now out as well, as I could not get it to budge prior. Spent the next 40 minutes removing the...

Just a quick update to say I have not gotten back to this yet. Had to do a steering gear on my truck, went and picked up a 73 Dart Sport for my 14 yr old, work and holiday fun have delayed my return.... it's all good,

I doubt it. The uppers were rubber, as are the strut rod bushings.

Idk yet. It'll be Friday at the earliest, before I get back to it.

Upper arms and spindles already out.... but I did crank the bar adjuster back up and pit the jack under the arm.... still spins

Was gonna push the torsion bar back with the lower control arm, then pull the control arm off the end. Always done it that way. Bass-ackwards? Maybe.

Pulling the front suspension from the 68 B'cuda. UCA bolts popped right out with plenty of evidence that the prior owner anti-siezed the crap out of them. Well, he must have anti-siezed the LCA bolts where they go thru the K frame well. Dang nuts won't come off. All they do is spin the LCA...

Follow up for any who might care, or not. LOL So I got it right on Tuesday. Took the lowering block off the left side and it will mover a half inch fore/aft in the centering bolt that holds the spring pack together. Took the right side out and it does not move. So made a shim to fill the gap...

Appreciate the insight. I checked it out this morning. Popped the coupler off the inputs haft. U joint on the steering column is free. Looks like a new gear box is needed. This is a rebuilt box that is only about 3 years old. (Not from you guys)

The valve is internal to the box, from what I'm reading. Possible debris in the system.

I'm leaning toward the pump is bad. 2005 Dodge Ram 2500. Turns fine to the right, but turning left is like trying to turn a 1948 Mack truck sitting still with your foot on the brake. Yeah, it's that hard to trun at a stop, and feels like normal standard steering when rolling a little. And it...

I think you nailed it Del.... center to center on the right side wheels 112" center to center on the left side is 111.5" Looks like the left side is misaligned, as the wheelbase is supposed to be 112"

Took the Shelby Dakota on its maiden voyage before turkey dinner on Thursday. Never felt this issue before in any vehicle I've had. Wants to pull right upon acceleration and dive left upon letting off the gas, no braking involved. The dive left is more pronounced than the pull to the right...

+2 inch.... you can get new springs with a rating of +1 , +2 inch higher ride height over what stock springs are supposed to be.

Although we got away with it for years, as mentioned above, air shocks place a lot of stress on the upper and lower shock mounts that they were not originally designed for.

Just replace the springs with new +2 inch repos. Or get yours re-arched.

No clue. I'd think just a tad heavier being thicker? I didn't weigh them, just guessed. I might be stronger than I feel....lol

Won a pair in the PST Super Bowl contest - Yay me! The FedEx shipping label does not have a weight on it, but holding them, I'd guess approx 12 - 14 lbs each?

If I recall, we used a 71 ebody manual disc master. Don't remember which prop valve he picked up.

If you want to retain your sbp wheels, and 2ant manual discs up front, go with the Scarebird set up. Did it to my son's 65 B'cuda. Works well.

I got moderatored out of that other thread for questioning the descriptive use of said extenders to raise the rear of the vehicle..... :p :mob: - no worries Mike, I know that wasn't the place for it. My panties are not bunched up about it...LOL Great description/explanation of the proper use...

Goes without saying, but I'll say it just in case.... make sure everything at the opposite end of the lower control arm is disconnected - strut rod, shock, ball joint/spindle...

Heat the nuts before removing them. Buy new lock nuts and use loc-tite. Never had an issue. Watched dad do it many many times in the late 70s thru the 80s on a fleet of chrysler taxi cabs - talk about an abuse fleet of vehicles.... they were running early 70s Newports and Furys when he start...

I'm thinking if you're married and need help with your nuts, it must be time to get a girlfriend.....

breather grommet from the valve cover?

Left and right turns, or just one or the other? You mentioned the rears being the wrong offset with the springs you are going to change when the new wheels arrive...... What tire/wheel combo do you have up front now? Any chance of tire rub at the fender edge or frame when turning with the...