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ET is not how you calculate HP, its trap speed and vehicle weight.

Jesus christ, your tunnel ram isnt the problem, you have major issues with your engine.

READ THIS AGAIN

Your MPH indicates your engine is making approximately 102 flywheel horsepower. I would forget your carbs and intake, and start with the basics, firing order, leakdown test, ect.

You have some major issues to work out. Start at the beginning, because 84 mph in a 2200 lb chassis is making no power at all. Wow!

If you need four bolt mains, you need a better block. X block, R block, or ritter

MPH is way low, you might have tuning issues too, but the converter will make a huge improvement

Buy a converter custom built for the car and you'll be fine. What was you trap MPH

Horsepower cannot usually be properly calculated from ET. Horsepower is figured from WEIGHT, and MPH

So what do you want us to use? Our crystal ball? You have given us basically zero information and then asked for help.

Post the whole time slip and we can help

I usually just have the deck cut untill it's square, measure and go from there. I like to remove as little as possible from the deck surface.

I wouldn't order the pistons untill the block has been square decked, and you know the actual finished deck height.

I "think" they are all just Chinese knock offs of the edelbrock head.

I would, in your case, buy a custom piston, with the metric ring pack, and chevy pin size, and run a 6.125 or 6.250 chevy rod. MUCH lighter than any shelf 340 piston, with superior rings. Jmho

The 320 or 300 HP crate, is nothing but a factory 5.9 Longblock with a carb and intake swap. No cam swap needed to reach those levels

Awsome build, old-school as can be and plenty fast, especially for a 4 speed

Interesting

Ok, what is the build? Sounds interesting

Is the new crank a full radius crank? But regardless, if you sent a bearing sample, then your new rods should be machined to fit your bearings...I can't see a problem

Get rid of the 4:10 gears, I'd suggest 2:94 or 3:23, tune the carb, make sure you have a good timing curve in the distributor, and definitely use vacuum advance, that should net 20s pretty easy

I have a similar setup, 98 5.2 magnum in a 71 dart, stock longblock, cam and all. M1 dual plane, thermoquad, Doug's headers, summit 2.5 exhaust, 904 and a 3:23 sure grip. Gets almost 22 mpg and can cruise cross country with no issues

Nope, car was on slicks, was dead consistent, the gear swap was a experiment to see what the car would do...it was crazy, it ran EXACTLY the same ET as I'd did with the street gear

Your won't know till you run a back to back test, but odds are, you won't see much difference going from 3:23 to 3:73 with your 408.... I have ran a 3:55 gear, swapped in a 5:13 and the car ran the EXACTLY same et

Be pepared for a sea of excuses....... Culminating in the statment "MPH numbers dont mean s@#t" by the OP. His reasoning was it ran in the elevens, so it MUST make 500 HP..... I started out by pointing out he could go alot faster with tuning, but gave up when I reilized he wouldnt understand.

There area few, and the MPH numbers dont seem to jive with the claimed "dyno" horsepower.

I agree 100% with what your saying...... Its just like trying to convince people on this site that torsion bars and leafsprings work without the need for all this tubular coilover non-sense. Lots of people assume if its "new" its "better" and we know that's not allways the case.

And I wouldn't be buying a bunch of suspension parts that you don't need, id spend the money on two tires.

You have probally the WORST tire possible on that thing. ANY other brand would be a improvement.

If you MUST do it with iron, I say get a set of W2s The earlier ones had a std LA exhaust pattern, then they had a dual pattern in later years. I have a set on a 340 right now, with regular headers.