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I worked as a service writer for a dealership for a couple of years out of college. Many times we would get older cars (say 5 or so years old) that would have a bad alternator. After pricing the dealer item, then the better aftermarket rebuild, many would INSIST that we install an AUTOZONE...

Funny, I had the same situation. Inside of the gas tank was flaking rust. The sock was dry rotted and gone. It would suck rust up the fuel line and fill up the steel fuel filter (which we couldn't see in). It would choke it out. When you stopped, the rust would settle down on the bottom of...

The flasher itself is a relay. Turns the lights on and off. When you get your new flasher unit, get the electronic version with the loud click. It will be much more steady and easier to hear.

By the way, left hole- speedo cable. Right hole, washer hoses/grommet, or just grommet if you don't have a foot pump.

Use my assembly photos on my website for reference! Keep in mind that there were several holes that varied per option. Tach and/or performance gauge got another hole than the base models. They were drilled in a dimple to the left of those holes . 67, 68, 69 drilled either the top dimple or...

Depends on what you need. Start here: http://www.evanswiring.com/

Depends on what you will be doing with the car. The stock system can take some very simple upgrades that would give significant relief to the factory setup and save you some serious money. If you do plan on big stereo, A/C, and other high amp items, then, yes, rewire the car. However, if...

When you say all power, does the radio work? Interior lights? If no, I would look at the battery and if a cell went bad. If it just won't start (no clicking), try starting it in neutral if it is an automatic. There is a fusible link at the junction box that could burn through in case of a...

Mine did the exact same thing. Thought my new mini-starter wasn't matching with the torque converter correctly. Worried myself sick because battery was showing 12 volts and the sound of the starter stripping into the teeth was scary. Swapped in a new battery and everything worked perfectly.

Check your linkages. I have the same problem with mine but I know my console shifter linkage slipped a little not allowing it to engage the neutral safety switch in park. You have a little wiggle room in Neutral allowing the safety switch to start.

You can always upgrade that ground wire too. Clean, clean, clean all connections!!!!

I 100% agree with wjajr. I was assuming all your other wiring had been checked and double checked. I was also suffering with voltage drop across the circuit, primarily from the ignition switch through the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor (I'm talking about the "run" wire, not the...

The replacement regulators out there are mostly electronic now. That is what you want. Make sure you stay away from the cheaper "autozone" ones. They may warranty their parts, but you may have to go through 4 or 5 before you get one that works right. I personally like the top of the line NAPA or...

Voltage regulator issues. Which one do you have on the car? Old points, new electronic, blue box?

I had that when a what I throught was a perfectly good battery didn't have any cranking amps left. It would show 12V, but did the same grind noise. Replaced the battery, cleaned the terminals REALLY GOOD before bolting the cables on, and everything worked perfectly. I was about to pull it all...

This is how I did my relays. Hid them under my battery tray. (The third relay is for my Hella fog lamps). You can see my power from the relay going to the small fuse panel and to the three relays. In this photo, the new headlight wiring is not hooked up. Those are the wires at the bottom of the...

I have done the chrome PowerMaster Alternator upgrade, but I have also upgraded my system some to help with the dimming headlight issue. There are two upgrades that will make a significant difference to your problem. I suggest with an alternator upgrade, you do both. First, the stock wiring...

Need some more background about what you have done to the car before this happened. Look for a pinched wire at the parking light and the tail light area. Have you had your car apart? Is there a wire that has been accidentally caught under something? Check all sockets, grounds, etc. Make sure...

Many grills are available aftermarket or from other factory installs that gives you options for the rear speakers. I actually found a set of chevrolet grills that are metal and have studs welded on them, blasted them, painted them flat-whatever (color that matches your package tray) and used a...

Relay... have the original switch provide the switching power for a relay. Have a dedicated power supply to the relay. Will eliminate a whole lot of problems. Don't forget to put a fuse in the system. I found that the blade style fuse holders make the best contact and are reasonably priced.

Yeah, when you buy a ballast, make sure you get one that is at least 1 ohm. That will save your coil and keep it from burning up. The parts stores have books that they can look up a ballast for you. My electronic ignition conversion came with a 1.4 ohm ballast.

Be careful with chosing a ballast when you change it. They are sized based on the coil ohm rating. If you have a stock coil and electronic ignition, you want the combined ohm rating of the coil and the ballast to exceed 1.5 ohms so the coil and the ECU will live.

I swapped out the glass fuse holder for a blade fuse holder (12-gauge). That was the final piece of the puzzle. Everything up to the same voltage now. I guess the aftermarket glass fuse holder (small contacts held to the end of the fuse by a spring) doesn't make a good enough contact for the...

Um... can't remember, bought it from a vendor on Ebay a few years back.

Pictures of installed relay and ignition.

Only heat is the ballast and the choke coil.

WHoops.. yes, I did fuse it. Now that I look at the fuse holder, I may replace it. It is a glass fuse holder (not a blade). It is a 12-gauge, but I don't like how the ends of the fuse are touching by just using a spring. If that isn't an issue, it could be later. I'll change that tomorrow...

Battery feed from the starter relay (all connections crimped with uninsulated ring or Packard 56 connectors and then heat shrinked)- 12 gauge. Tight and secure -runs from (brand new) starter relay to the new relay that I located at the old voltage regulator location. Relay: 12v out has two...

I added a relay for the 12v key on, running my hot directly from the battery to the new relay (where I mounted on the original voltage regulator location). I used the original blue/white wire that originally provided voltage to the ignition as my trigger. I made sure all my wiring was heavy...

Yeah, I thought about a relay to isolate the heavy voltage running through the ignition switch. I'm going to probe around on that some. I spent some time cleaning the bulkhead connector really well and made sure all connectors are tight there. I'll still check that out.