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When I look at turbo timing maps, I don't see how you could accomplish that with mechanical timing in a distributer.

Building a turbo slant and you really want to run the OEM points dizzy with no timing controller? The easy way out is to keep your dizzy and use it to trigger a timing controller.

THis is why I like big block A-bodies. Milder at any given HP level. 450hp in an Abody is plenty to have fun with and is capable of cracking into the 11's and forced induction will defineily make it a milder, more street freindly engine regardless of displacement. Is the SC you are looking...

Soemthing to consider....they cut cams up to 134 degrees of LSA. Here is a typical small block turbo cam grind.... 228/240 dur @.050", .630"/.612" lift, 118 deg LSA

You can run water/meth injection if you choose to run non-intercooled.

If you can get away with a single, go that route.

I actually just looked at my carb online just so I could tell you what accelerator pump size I run and cant' seem to find it listed anywhere.

That cam doesn't sounds stock nor does the compression.

160psi cranking compression.

That static compression may not be an issue. Whats the cranking compression? You may need a cam change with the SC. I'd call one of the shops that specialize in this. I know when I thought of running a procharger they told me I'd be fine with one, tuned properly of course. I have 10:1 static, 160cc.

8 to 10 no prob. 14 to 15 would be as far as I'd take it.

I bought a indy dual plane and I had to grind it for the dizzy to clear. It also did very poorly in testing compared to other intakes.

Before I even got to the end of your post I was thinking the victor. I've had issues with Indy intakes. I'd avoid them.

more like a mild, less than 1 hp per cube 318.

Sc2ner, what the LSA of the cams they recommended. That will be the biggest determining factor for a FI setup. As Rusty said 114+LSA

If you can fit them check out the hushpower mufflers by Flowmaster. They really work. It's not a gimmick

I went from the flowmasters to Borla XR-1's and it quieted the car down inside and out. The engine liked it as well.

Running the MP distributer is fine for now but I wouldn't run that engine without a boost retard.

Did you even look at the cams I speced for you? The crower flat tappet has 0.521 int./0.528 exh. 112 ls. The Crane is 0.480 int./0.500 exh. 114ls (and with a 1:6 ratio rocker would yield .505/.528 lift has very little impact on streetable charactoristics of a camshaft. Duration/lobe separation...

what's the difference between mechanical and hydraulic flat tappet cam. The two I picked are hydraulic. the two you Picked are mechanical. They are totally different grind specs than the ones you posted. I don't see the point in running a hyd cam. That would do it and go 11.50's no prob and...

Out of those 2 the 2nd one is a better choice. yep /\/\/\ Since you want a flat tappet here are 2 good choices. CRO-31321 CRN-691191

True and always a good idea, but If he's only shooting for 11.5's it isn't going to see much boost or stress. YOu can go 11.50's with under 500hp.

CRN-699631 or CRN-699641 would be good choices for a turbo small block.

Turbo, although ideal is a fab it yourself deal and room/space is an issue. You can get a bolt on procharger setup that will make 750-1000 HP and be very streetable. That is the direction i'd head...

Agreed, bolt on clean setups that trhe average guy can tune and make work.

That pic was stolen from paxton's site.

big block

If you use a carb your timing would be boost referenced. MSD makes a boost referenced box. It senses boost pressure via sensor of some sort. http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8762/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710552330&catargetid=1784155996&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLTvtZ-65LoCFc9QOgodICwAjQ...