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Update. Everything works. Headlight switch replaced with good ground. Dash lights work. Turn signals fixed. Turn signal flasher relay corrected the problem. No need to disturb the column

Ok Redfish. Here's what I have. I checked the ground at the radiator support. Terminals are corroded. Cleaned them with no change. They do come on, just no blink. Checked the bulb. Right bulb, not blown, changed anyway. It blinks! I don't think the bulb is bad I just disturbed the connection. I...

Yes. The turn signal goes solid but doesn't blink and correct one lights up.

W Will do. Grounding the switch makes the dashlights work. Turn signals are unrelated as far improper function. They act more like a goofed up turn signal cam. I'll have to look at the panel for a good grounding location

Chased wires in the dash and could find nothing I could say was the problem. I went to the headlight switch, which I replaced. It looks the same as the old one but has a little grounding tab on the back that I didn't think was nessary. Well.....I grounded it to the dash. So it must be nessary...

The only time the dash lights don't is with headlights on. I do think I'm on to what's causing the problem. I tinkered with it before work this morning and noticed something I missed. With parking lights, dash lights work but the turn signal lights are on too. The get brighter and dimmer with...

That's good to know. Strange how it works fine until the headlights are on. I was hoping to find something simple. They call it chasing wires for a reason. Stuff like this makes you feel like you're chasing something you can't catch!

Yes checked the fuses but you're right. Generally it's the simplest solution that works

I have a 71 service manual. Thanks though

I have. Reostat works fine with headlight switch in position 1 but in position 2 with headlights and running lights, dash lights go out

I have a 71 swinger. About 2 months ago, when driving at night, the dash lights quit working with headlights on. The dash lights work fine with just the running lights on. I replaced the headlight switch. Still have the same problem. Everything works, running lights, dome light, no dash lights...

Gap is set to .018 to .030 on the msd. The mag on the msd seem to be not only larger but stronger

Both distributors are new with no wear

Msd is in control of all the timing as far the fuel injection goes, it just receives a tach signal from the msd box. All I'm doing is changing the trigger out going from one distributor to another. I did catch a something in an msd tech bulletin. It said it was recommended to use a shielded...

If I am generating that much rf pishta, the chrysler distributor doesn't seem to have a problem overcoming it.

I feel pretty dumb about the whole cap thing. It's locked down with screws. Not sure I'm ready to do the dizzy shuffle again. It's running really good with the factory dizzy. MSD suggested I use their shielded dizzy cable. It has a ground wire. Anyone using the shielded cable.

Screws? Did you modify the cap?

I was looking at rotor phasing very close. When the pickup and reluctor are lined up, it's dead on. But cap on this style dizzy is pretty sorry. It doesn't lock in like it should. It has the little L shape locking tabs. With the cap in place, you can wiggle it back and forth. Not good.

I actually have a friend with a distributor machine.

Has anyone else had problems with an MSD dizzy? I've used MSD products for years but can't figure out why this dizzy won't work. I have an FiTech fuel injection set up on the car. Shortly before swapping from carb to efi, my car developed a miss mid range to upper rpm. Just like with a bad plug...

Battery is in the engine bay. Tying the run start together fixed the fluctuations in voltage. Constant 12+ volts. The ignition is solid. My efi on the other hand has problems totally unrelated to a one wire alternator. Thanks for the help. When I was trouble shooting wiring, this was the only...

I did not tie the start and run together. I will try that first

8 Guage wire battery direct

70aarcuda, you're talking about taking the ballast out of the loop, splicing it together. 67dart273, I always connect the msd directly to the battery. Car is efi which creates a new set of problems. The factory that connected to the alternator, it's just disconnected. I have an gauge direct to...

The wiring is totally factory. I have a friend suggesting that I leave the wire direct to the battery and connect the factory alternator to the alternator. I don't feel good about that. I've checked the wiring from the battery into the car, through the amp gauge back out the ballast. I haven't...

I would agree it was the ballast resister but I'm wired in on the bulk head side. The wire that used to attach to the alternator is not used. Power used to go through the car to the battery. Now it comes from the battery to the car. I hate wiring. I've checked every connection from the battery...

Recently I converted my car to a one wire alternator. It's a 71 swinger so it had the newer style regulator. I bought a tuff 1 one wire 100 amp Chrysler alternator from summit racing. I also bought an 8 gauge alternator wire. When I installed the alternator, I also grounded it to the chassis as...

found this on ebay.16 Pcs Mopar Wiring Bulkhead Connectors A B C E Body Charger Cuda Challenger | eBay haven't found a shell. you may have to go rob one at a salvage yard. it won't be bad to make.

YEA...... the last time I lost a voltage regulator it was the old school pre 70 analog what ever they were. Hit the gas and the head lights made it look like day light outside right before both of them blew! Lots of things happen without proper voltage regulation, non of them are good. Russ