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I have painted a bunch with the old $10 HF purple gun it still works good. If I am just doing a fender or hood, I usually grab it, it saves me from deep-cleaning my iwata every time I need to spray some color.

About any of the HF paint guns will give you a decent paint job. Alot of it is who is behind the gun.

Lacquer primer, if they still make it.

Yes, just make the panel fit your car.

With the compound line right there, that is extra work to keep the body line straight.

I am saying my 73 had the tab, not sure of the earlier model.

Sorry no, the car is painted now.

Mine did, I ran them clear to the tailight panel, just floated it in by the door, and away from any body line across the quarter panel.

I would float a skin on, stay away from the door jam.

Just fab them, they are just sheet metal.

There is your answer.

What does the marker light opening look like, I bet it was made to fit multiple years.

73 and up used that tab.

That fender is soo far off, I would order one from a different company. Never seen one that bad.

Align the top of he fender and work your way down, it would not surprise me if you end up spitting the fender to get the lines to fit and glass it together.

Use a hot plate to warm the single stage paint up, it will flow like glass.

And I have found the best time to shoot is right at daylight, when the dew is still on to keep the dust down, and no bugs. I have everything prepped the night before, so all I have to do is wipe the car down, fill the paint cup. Yes I am shooting in a garage.

A bunch, and the temp of the metal its applied to, and humidity. I really do not have that problem here, but I will do most of the body work on my own cars over the winter, in the garage where I can control the temp, and the humidity is low. I even use a infera-red gun to test the metal and...

Buy an eraser wheel, any paint store has them, they will not damage paint. The eraser wheel is just that a huge pencil eraser on a wheel that will attach to a drill, they cost about $15

Spraying with a real gun is cheaper than rattle-bomb. But some people do not have that option.

3M is having troubles sourcing the raw materials to produce the sealer. I believe the raw material was comming from Russia. We use alot of their fuel tank sealer on aircraft, and just cannot get it. Even masking tape from them is a problem.

The local NAPA here mixes them in spray cans.

Its a parts car, done went down that road with a 70 cuda, 340 4-speed.

Nice looking car, I have a 70 Challenger awaiting my attention. As far as leaving the paint in the gun, its probably set up by now.

Body color so it does not look half-assed.

I bought the 3M gun, yes its expensive for a glorified caulking gun, but it works good. Flange the panel, overlay the repair panel, drill 1/8 holes thru both panels, hold with Clecko's. Clean any paint off metal, apply adhesive, and Clecko together. After adhesive sets up, remove Clecko's and...

Clecko's

Message me, I can put you in contact will a guy that parts Dodge trucks for a living, he most likely will have any part you need.

Did you keep the old cars waxed, the older OEM clear was not very good without care.

The new single stage urthane looks great, flows great. Until it sits in the sun for a year, it dulls fast. I painted my Willys with single stage, it turned dull as crap after time. Yes it will buff out but modern base/clear is alot better. Straight out the gun, with no buffing.