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:welcome:

I'm in the process of swapping everything from one car to another that had similar issues. I figured the only way to do it right is to swap the front subframe.

The dart is almost ready to tow a boat

Took the dart out for a 40 mile cruise today. It doesn’t leak. Horrible bump steer though. Have to play with the pressure block.

no leak there (yet). Haven’t ran it for very long.

Pulled the steering column, unbolted the header collectors, removed the drivers side motor mount nut, loosened the passenger side. Knocked the lock ring loose. Everything came out without having to jack up the engine. :BangHead: put it back together in the correct order and it no longer...

I was second guessing the order and thought it could only go one way. I had the book 10 feet away. The fact that it's top 10 parts that suck to remove (maybe even top 5 behind removing dash) is the reason I'm ripping on myself.

Yep. I’m an idiot for not using it. pretty sure I put the ring on the wrong side of the spring. Unless the od of the ring fits through the id of the spring.

i did end up pulling the block off. The o-rings were there. What a pain in the butt that was to get back together. I’m leaning towards something I screwed up replacing the seal.

where’s the fun in that?

I read that I’m suppose to loosen the pressure block and move it little at a time. Didn’t matter where it was at it stills rips the wheel to the left. Although with the block all the way to the rear I can turn the wheel more freely to the right while the car isn’t running. No leaks so far...

Must have botched something putting it back together. Fired it up and the steering wheel spun to the left on its own. Lucky my hand was clear.

Still waiting on the seal kit from rock auto. Once I get it back together I still have to put the motor back in. Sometime in February.

anybody have a part number for this o-ring or do I just leave it because the other seal will probably leak anyway Hahahaha

the screw trick didn’t work. That’s when my blood pressure spiked

If I had to do it over again I would just go offset shackles like this car. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/supercar-oologah-style/ https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/349298/3.html "intriguing dont tell me its a single plane M-1 sculpted on the outside to look...

The torsion bars were installed previously. The only thing that was replaced were the strut rod bushings. raised the ride height and welded up the cam washers. Drives awesome after the 8th alignment try. Not sure what was wrong/changed.

Just wanted to say thanks. Car drives amazing. Been through a couple tanks of gas already.

I just installed pst 1.03’s.

That something is jacked Hahahaha As long as it drives straight I’m ok with it.

A couple of the cam adjuster washers had some play. I was going to replace them but couldn’t find ones without the double flat spots. Welded/filed the old ones.

This is the best I could get it. Is what it is I guess. Sick of messing with it. Going to have to set toe. (Ran out of time)

Everything else looked ok. Wacked the strut rod bushings in. Set the ride height 1/2” higher to 26” Driving it to work tomorrow. 87 degrees today 34 tomorrow morning.

It’s from the pry bar. Instructions said to leave it attached to the lower ball joint and pry Between the k-frame. Probably just as easy to take the control arm totally out.

What to look for? Bent lower control arm?

The end looks bent. Does this matter? Also AJ the right side camber doesn’t get to zero. -.3 is the closest it gets.

that's what I'm getting at. something is messed up. not sure how to figure it out. I'm going with strut rod bushings alone aren't going to fix it. Hoping there is something to be measured or tried to figure out whats going on.