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Here's the electric choke kit you'd need. All new parts, fully adjustable…these work well. Bolt on, hook up, adjust, and go.

Read up on the how-and-why of that '70-'71 4-port tank setup here. Then vent your tank with a charcoal can (info in link) unless you like smelling gasoline wherever the car is parked.

The fuel pump itself—the original mechanical one—already contains the valve you have in mind, in the form of the fuel pump's output check valve. Sometimes they grow leaky with age (and these days, with the poor quality of available fuel pump, sometimes they're leaky from new). An electric fuel...

Read this.

CFD244 is almost completely right. What he calls the 1971 ECS tank is actually the 1971 50-states-and-Canada + 1970-California ECS tank. Read up on the subject here.

That GM № 353162 ought to do exactly what you want. A detailed description of its function is At the gas tank a fuel separator valve is bolted onto a bracket near the top of the tank. A 3/8-inch hose on the bottom of this valve connects to a vent tube on the top of the tank and a 1/4-inch hose...

That's a 1-barrel choke thermostat you show in your pic—not compatible with the 2bbl carburetor (nor with that '73-up exhaust manifold also shown in your pic, for that matter). Go get a № 1232 electric choke kit. It will attach to your exhaust manifold at the bottom end just fine. It would...

Wiring instructions are included with the choke kit, but it's really easy. The new choke has two wires. One gets connected to a source of key-on battery voltage. One of the loose flying wires already in your engine compartment probably fills the bill, but if not, disconnect the ballast resistor...

Steer around the big pile of aggravation and wind up with a better result: install a № 1234 Electric choke kit instead of the problem-prone, non-adjustable rinky-dink mess of a factory setup. (Is that pink paint on the valve cover?)

Loads immediately for me: www.carbsonly.com (And yes, a № 1274 SuperChoke from Mike's is going to be the same as a № 1274 SuperChoke from CarbsOnly)

Do yourself a large favour: remove the existing choke thermostat and its modulator (at the other end of that wire) and install a № 1274 Electric choke kit. For one thing, it's adjustable, which the factory choke is not. Also, it is not dependent on the exhaust pass-thru in the intake manifold...

No, that would be wrong. We don't get to just randomly connect this thing to that thing, or this hose to that line. Not if we want the car to run and operate correctly. Not if we want to avoid creating extreme safety hazards. Doing the job right yields better results, and is no harder than...

The OSAC valve on the firewall should be bypassed; these are notorious for causing stumble and mushy acceleration. They were put there to squeak the new '73s past their Federal emissions type-approval tests so the cars would be legal to offer for first sale. Run the vacuum hose directly from the...

That's a '74-up Holley 1945 carb. It's going to have a lot of vacuum nipples not applicable to your '69 car. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download; pull down the 1945 one so you can identify...

The "Duro-7" and the "Daytona Float Valve" both came/come in different configurations depending on the application—just like OE inlet needle-seat assemblies. This is kind of a silly argument, LOL. Now it's an even sillier argument; we're both saying the same thing. 8-)

Maybe not, but the "Daytona Float Valve" in the Carter BBS and BBD carb kits I bought from them was an identical, exact match for the "Duro-7 valve" in the old-stock Tomco Carter BBS and BBD carb kits I had on the shelf at the same time. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The BBS is the better-designed carb, but at this late date the one to pick is the one that's available in better condition. Top № 1 choice would be a new Carter BBS. They do go by on eBay from time to time, and for hookup compatibility you'd want a '70-up (California) or '71-up (50-state/Canada)...

…which isn't actually theirs. It's their name on what Tomco used to call their "Duro-7" inlet valve. Patented in 1962, patents here and here. I find they do make an improvement—a small one, not a huge one—over the OE pointy-rubber-tip type of inlet.

Read up on that '70 California + '71 50-state evaporative emission control system here. There's no diffference in tune-up procedure; just follow the tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post, including a careful and correct valve adjustment. Consider doing the HEI upgrade and the...

Go see here.

You generally don't. Those 1920 metering blocks eventually hit the end of their useful life, usually due to "metal mould" corrosion, and once that happens usually they can't be dragged back to life. If it's a superficial fault power valve check ball retainer comes unstaked and falls out) it can...

It won't be found by looking by vehicle application at S'cuder's link (or anyone else's); that carb you have is an export item, unknown on the North American continent. Try a CU1114; oughtta fit and work correctly.

Yes. The later filler neck mounts from the outside, rather than from the inside. And yes, you'd have to drill new screw holes. You may have a bit of adaptative cleverness ahead of you, but it shouldn't be too hard.

A very good place to start.

Y'welcome. You may want to take this opportunity to do the Fuel line mod.

Pointy end toward the fuel line, but the 2-piece axial-flow inlet needle/seat is not correct for the Holley 1920—it's a cheap aftermarket piece that can cause problems in that carb. The original was a 1-piece needle/seat assembly with radial flow. Much (much!) better to get a carb kit from...

Okeh, but I'm still curious what the spark plugs look like. $50 converter = the cheap short-lived junk I was referring to earlier.

I don't think you'll get anywhere trying to improve the ignition. Your HC and CO are way up from previous tests and your NOx is way down, which suggests you're running rich. I doubt it's from a fuel pump fault -- could be a carb calibration or adjustment fault or a sticking choke or other air...

Good score on the NOS carb. Japanese carburetors from the emission control era are notorious for dying very stubbornly (i.e., once past a certain point they are bound and determined to stay dead no matter how much time, effort, and money you put into 'em). You may wind up buying that shim kit...

No, '70+ cars with ECS do not have vented caps. They have pressure-vacuum caps. It's not the same; see here. Also, the '70-'71-with-ECS gas cap is not the same as the '72-'76 cap.