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So what is the ideal width and backspace for a 15" wheel on a car with the disc brake swap?

When I bought my tires the fella on the phone at Mickey Thompson told me to stay + or - 1" tread width to my wheel width. My L 60s ended up being 10" tread on a 8.5 wheel. 1/2" narrower wheel than they reccomended and it shows. They crown in the center at proper pressure so I run them a bit low...

I meant to mention most wide 14" wheels I have come across were 9"s not 10s like the 15s. I would be double checking this if you weren't positively sure.

This is the closest I have around here for a visual. This is a L60 15 on a 8.5 wheel. Tread measures just over 10". I believe if the L14's your looking at have the same 10"s of tread width?? you may be fine on a 9" wheel. I probably could have used a 10" wheel with these L60 15" tires but...

I know when using 15" wheels they will work fine. L's are just a bit taller and narrower than the N's

I just looked over an old April 1975 car craft magazine I still have. Cragars, Ansens, Keystone and Appliance were advertised ,no Centerline Ad. It is easy to differentiate the centerline from the Cragar by the rivit / bolt count in most old pictures. Cragar used 15 fasteners. Cragars blue...

Many ways to skin this cat. I would guess the most common method on the front is to swap suspension parts from a 73 up A body. The key parts to the swap is the upper control arm and spindle and caliper adaptor bracket. Wear parts are the rotors and calipers. You could do the same at the rear by...

I know the Cragar super tricks came out in 71. They were the same style but used bolts to hold the wheel halves together. (Centerline uses rivits) I thought the centerlines were a bit later.

I stumbled across this page from an old magazine about the new wheels available at the time. Third row center?

Do you have a welder? Are you trying to save the paint? Do you have a jig/sabre saw?

Cragars has a thicker round washer that is oversize for uni-lug wheels. You should be able to find them called Cragar washers.

If you cut them more than the SS templates and open the forward edge to match the inner fender you can get 31's to fit. You will need to move the rear axle back about 1.5" to keep tire away from the front of the new opening. Most of the SS cars got this treatment during the early 70s when...

I also should have mentioned wheels are stronger if the offset is nearest to the center of the wheel width. The wider the wheel the more leverage available to bend a wheel especially when the offset is set near its polar limits.

You can choose any backspace you want since your axle isn't built yet. Why confine your wheel choices by building the axle first. Cut the inner wells out to the rails and you have about 13 1/2" of space to fill up with tire. Possibly less since you are lowering body over tires? Sticking...

I always get my wheels and tires first. Set them under your minitubbed car and measure between wheels. Hard to screw up this way.

I like 5 slots. Has a cool 60s look.

That old slot mag wheel was not removed from a late 80s or 90s ford whatever. It came off a small bolt pattern a- body. 4" bolt circle.

Fords and AMC had 4.5 bolt circle same as large pattern Mopar. I've never come across a 4.25 myself. Those slot mags are small bolt pattern Mopar. 4" Google must be misinformed on this one.

Small bolt pattern. 4" Imagine a circle going through the center of all five wheel mounting holes. It would measure 4" across.

Not sure if this duster has actual 20s but I believe its a Hotchkiss built duster. If you can't resist adding modern sized wheels to a old car. This picture seemed to have the most taste I could come up with doing a search for 20s and duster. I now know what the word "donk" mentioned above is...

Tricked me with the old cragar in the title. Different wheel came to mind. Anyway those look like weld pro stars. I think they will look good painted black on your machine. Cool paint job.

That is a Ansen brand wheel. Ansen did not put their name on all of their wheels. I have some Ansens marked the same as your wheel. Gardena Calf. and the washer relief is your give away clues. Never understood why they didn't put their name on all of them. Most other brands such as Fenton...

Oops double post.

Great job! Its always great to see a old set of wheels get cleaned up and put on an old car. Takes ya back a few decades at a glance. Lots of work but well worth it. Most new wheels cant deliver the same effect. Super looking cuda.

I am generally one of the haters when it comes to larger diameter wheels than 15"on 60s or 70s cars. Just not something I would do out of my own stubbornness to keep things as they were back then. Your car does look good though and you pulled it off well. Still has that vintage vibe going on...

The most important is that you can make good welds and read a tape measure. You will need some tools to cut metal also. Do some research. Kits can make it easier also.

I predict a backhalf job in your future. They do look decent. Do you know what you will put them on?

The lowering part is not going to work. You won't find any lowered a-bodies with 31" tires stuffed up under the stock sheet metal just by moving the axle back. You will have to cut and weld. You can start with a Stanley tape or a tire. It will make it crystal to you very fast.

I don't have a duster but my barracuda required every trick in the book to get 31s to fit. You will be cutting your wheel openings.

Centerline autodrag