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I have built both 440 & 426 hemi A bodies without using aftermarket K frames or mounts. I didn't track down the factory original parts as they are rare and generally more expensive than I would/could pay. The K frame & mounts do not interchange between the two engines. Nor do the headers...

I love reading about these aluminum heads when you fellas that work with them regularly post. Great of you to let us in on some of your experiences with them. Seems trickflow has set the bar up a notch. We got to hear about some of the problems you have been seeing with the edelbrocks that...

For your truck application you could do just whatever minimum you need to do to get it running again. Timing gear set, bearings, cast rings and at least check the valve job by seeing if combustion chambers will hold fuel. Cam should be fine to use if in good shape. Unshrouding the valves and...

If I'm not mistaken the 392 is wider than the 426. I have never done the 392 swap in an A body for any real help or tips but I would say your suspicions of it not being simple are correct. I would start with a width measurement of the 392 at its widest point across the valve covers compared to...

So is this is a column shifted automatic? Floor shift? The pushing in the lever down at the trans is the one that's wore?

Which linkage are we talking about?

The 915 heads I have come across came on 67 engines only. They are special in that respect. Not as common as the open chamber heads. Their is a 516 closed chamber also but not quite as desirable as the 915. Not all 915s were magnums but could be with a exhaust valve change. They are not special...

Agreed big blocks rule when it comes to maitnence. Distributor in front No water in the intake External oil pump Water pump bolts into a housing Easy peasy.

The OP holy roller is asking about installing a 383 BB. Sorry, I don't have any experience with the modern Hemi's.

I like your lowbuck style 4geardemon. The wood part not so much but I have done worse in my days before having a welder to keep a car on the road. The Hemi's do take a modified BB K member. Although it has been modified so extensive you should just consider them completely different from the...

Wow!!!!! So clean and hidden wires. I am taking a shelved starter apart to see if I can move things around.

Nice, I like how you set this up. For years I have never liked how the mini starters wiring never fit well but never thought to do anything this creative to improve it. Looks much easier to work on this way also. Definitely gonna copy your fix on my cars. Thanks for sharing your remedy and...

I really like the sound of this fix. Clever indeed. Could you be coaxed into posting a picture of your modified starter installed with the tti headers for all of us? You know a picture of the new found terminal access. Thanks for sharing your solution with us.

The frame rails are 2" closer together on the 64-66 early A bodies. They were widened to accept the 383 in 67. They remained at this width till the end of A body production in 1976.

I'm sure the msd 7 is a better choice than the Mopar gold box's I plan to use. I believe the Mopar ignitions can be more of a gamble.

Very nice job you done rounding up the old bits. Took me along time. We got the same heads and direct connection pieces. Took me forever to find the stuff.

Hey outlawdart, what heads are you using with that dual plug setup? Lucky for sure,very tough parts to find. Did you get the sensors with your bracket and wheel?

Look them over for wear from bad oiling. Scoring on the bottom of rocker shaft. Also dress and align pad to valve stem carefully with shims. The assemblys can be rebuilt easy enough but should be done to the specific head. At least that's how I like to use them.

You could make a steel mount the thickness you need for the driver side and forget the tie down straps and rubber.

What's the gph on the pump and the tank capacity for this. Looks like some nice work went into it.

You Dont need a polylock mount on the passenger side. Swap it out for rubber.

Nothing to worry about.

I believe you meant 1/2" pickup tube. Put a pipe plug in it and run external. If a pipe plug won't seal it you may have to braze a seal. If you want to save $ over the price of new send me a pm I have lots of good used milodon pieces collected in a box from over the years. Save it somehow.

Cut to fit. Nice to have a spare if a header takes one out.

Copper, non resistor plugs and brass terminal scatter resistant caps. Built in resistance plugs and graphite wire and your not getting the most your high output coil has to offer. If I was to race with computers or needed a working radio I'd add the resistance and accept the voltage...

Beautiful 68, great color. Can't wait to see this engine. Can't help but think you may need a taller hood? Yes on the frame connectors. And with a 4-speed. Woo hoo!!! Will be fun.

I have done 3 440 A-body swaps. All were 4-speeds. I modified the v8 spool k-frame on all 3 with C-body mounts. Cutting & welding needed. I also welded washers on the driver side spool mount to make it solid. Lakewood bell housing on all 3. Flatten firewall to floorpan seam with hammer...

Its a good sized list. Here's the basics you will need to research. You need a short tail a833 4-speed. Replace truck oil pan, bellhousing and engine mounts with parts that will work with your k frame. Headers or manifolds also. Radiator

Not sure if you have any welding experience but you could drill out the spots on the baffle. Work out the dent then weld the baffle back in. Not the easiest solution but no plastic filler. I would have to really like the covers to go thru that tho.

They are later model years. Can't remember exactly 74-78 would be close. They may work under the blower motor as well as the earlier covers since they are taller more inboard than the ends. I like the looks of those. Post some pictures if they work.