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Mine always rusted up bad. Needed constant cleaning. Sealing it up is not the way to go it needs more airflow into it - and even that won't make it go away of you live in a humid area like here. I read someplace where the actual problem is the higher voltages arcing inside causing more ozone...

There is a red MSD bushing that provides 28 degrees of advance??? The largest bushing I was aware of is the black one that gives around 18-20 degrees? Have you checked your timing at 3200 rpm to see what you have with it all in?

If you have 34 degrees at idle and at 3500rpm then something is wrong. Either you don't have springs on the distributor cams or they are froze open? Also, idle speed is very much dependent on what cam you are running. High lift / duration cams are not going to idle at low rpm. I can't get mine...

No pictures but mine is under the dash on the inside of the firewall. Good place if you want to hide it but not if you are old and fat and need to work on it......

I have the same set up and the opposite problem. Mine is very erratic at idle but steady at 3000 rpm. I played with the springs some thinking the light springs were allowing the dizzy cams to bounce at idle (my idle is 13-1400rpm). Put the real heavy ones on and the timing got steady at idle -...

I have just the opposite problem with my motor. Steady at full advance but jumps around at idle. I just put heavier springs on the dist cams a couple days ago and it's still the same. They weren't the real heavy ones but one step up from the lighest.

Tried a pair in my rear trail/brake lights and they wouldn't work!!! The dealer told me he thought they would work without the voltage adaptor (?) but they don't.....

I've been running an electric Mezziere pump on my RB for almost three years now with no issues. The car is street driven but mostly just to local shows and some local cruises. I also have no T stat and run a restrictor - also never had an issue overheating, even in 90 degree weather. In fact...