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If you are looking for a pair of QA1 R series for racing, I have a like new set that were on my 62 B-body for a short time. Around 11" compressed and 16" extended.

And... while you are doing this look at the gear box relative to the K member to make sure it isn't lose and moving...

If I am seeing / understanding the problem correctly it looks like the body is coming down to the tire on acceleration? You could try reducing the suspension travel. You may first want to try some spring clamps to see if that stiffens the springs up enough. If all else fails some type of bump stop?

In reading the thread I also found the previous comments a bit strange - for this forum.. Personally I think the cage you are building looks great. You're doing a great job tucking the tubes out of the way and out of sight. Having the side bars on hinges - or removable does make it a whole lot...

Also check to make sure the box is not moving on the K member when you turn it. There's three nuts that hold in down and if they are loose the box could be moving when you turn the wheel..

Torsion bar adjustment more than likely.

I would avoid using the fenders, use something in the suspension or the frame. The frame bottom is easy and they should be parallel and level. Biggest issue is working the suspension to see where you are. You can bounce and bounce between adjustments to settle it in and after taking it for a...

I've been adjusting mine to the fender height too but the car always had a tilt in the rear. I recently measured from the bottom of the front frame to the ground and it was way off. Cranked and cranked (weight on) on the drivers side and finally got the front frame bottoms close - and low and...

Rearching will do it no doubt but the price to get them done is usually as much or more than a set of new ones.