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80 psi on start up is not bad, in fact most pressure regulators set at 80 to default. Where does it go once warmed up and with rpms? If your regulator keeps it capped at 80 regardless of rpm that's not bad. Are you running any type of oil flow restrictors?

Those look like 440-1 heads to me? My 440-1 heads had the same IHC 440-1 markings

Thanks, I've been trying to stress the same thing. Typically a solid roller cam is used in a performance application with high spring loads and as such still benefits/needs the zinc.

As long as you are using a high zinc oil I think the brand name is pretty much irrelevant. Check that it has somewhere between 1200-1400 ppm zinc and 1300-1400 ppm phosphorus and you're good to go (not recommended to exceed 1600ppm). You can have the discussion around synthetic vs dino oil that...

I have their timing chain cover and pointer on my motor. As they state in the instructions it needed a bit of clearance machining inside but it's been fine. I was focused on maximum use of aluminum when I put the motor together and thought it added nicely to the look...

Your motor will determine how to set the distributor up. Most RBs like around 37 - 38 total. The way to look at the bushings is that they will determine the "gap" or "difference" between the total and initial timing. The larger the OD of the bushing the less the difference between the total and...

You are correct - 1200 ppm of zinc and actually 1300 ppm of phosphorus is about the perfect blend from the research I did some time back. Anything much above 1600 ppm is a waste and at some point becomes detrimental to the bearing surfaces - especially during break in. While we are at dispelling...

Mine is wired to my ignition (for now) so it runs when the key is on. I also let it run for a few minutes after shutting the motor down to circulate coolant. I've been meaning to wire mine up to a direct manual switch not in the ignition. The reason not to use a T-stat is that most electric...

I've had a Meziere Model WP 106S - 35gpm on my car for four years now. The car is street only (although not a daily driver) 650+ hp RB. Never had an issue with the pump and never had the motor overheat - even in 90+ degree weather. I run an orifice plate instead of a thermostat (can't use a...

Measure the closest point of contact during a cycle. If it is less than 0.100" I would try to clearance the opening some. With a mild cam and low pressure springs you can get away with less but if you are runnning high spring pressures you should keep a good 0.100" of clearance to insure there...

That is interesting. Assuming your rocker arms are aluminum I am surprised they don't break first. In either event, I wonder if your push rods are jumping out of the cup enough to catch the lip and break it off. Rods too short or not adjusted correctly? Could be the rods are rubbing on the head...

These are actually the steel adjusters breaking in an aluminum arm??? Or are the arms breaking?

Sounds like a hot combo, depending of course on the heads. I run a similar motor with 11.2:1 compression with full ported Indy 440-1 heads, 2 1/4" to 2 1/8" headers and use 3" tubes, which seem ideal. Motor makes around 675 hp. Of course your NOS system will change the air flow a bit :) I had...

If I may ask - what motor are you running in that car to need 3 1/2" pipes??? The type of muffler will depend on what you are looking to get out of them. If you want loud and brash then Flowmaster or other baffled mufflers will do the trick. If you are looking for maximum air flow /...

Those look like they don't have fulcrum bearings? Are they individual shafts for each cylinder like Jesels?

Jesels are really good, but the most expensive and you have to set up for individaul shafts - which is a huge expense. If I were looking for a top quality set on a big cam motor again I would go with Harland Sharps. Smaller cam street motors can get by with something like Hughes, or Indy or...

I have my last set of T&Ds in my motor right now. Won't buy another set from them. I believe they had issues with the hardening of the rocker shafts and would not own up to it - and the customer service is non existant. The fellow that I and my engine builder kept talking to was arrogant and...

Street pan or strip?

I won't rub it in, promise :)

Not likely that the engine was assembled a year before it was put in a car. The date on the pad is the date the motor was assembled - which is typically within days or weeks of the car being built that it went into.

Assembled June 30th 1972. The cast date for the block is on the side of the block.