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I'll feel better when you put the hood on. Remember what I said about sealing the hood to the rad support.

Are those temperatures with the hood opened or closed? If they're with it open, close the hood and see if it gets worse, I'll bet it does. If so then try stuffing a couple of towels in between the hood and the rad support. Should be better.

Your very welcome. Zero dollars to try the towel thing. Also it doesn't matter if you have a fiberglass or steel hood, if that seal is missing it's going to make your car run hotter. There's a reason that Ma Mopar put them there. Trust me if it wasn't needed they wouldn't have spent the money to...

Just out of curiosity, Do you have a seal on the bottom of the hood that seals against the radiator support? I have found that when idling with the hood open there's no issue and the engine will run at a reasonable 180-190° BUT if that seal isn't present what happens is heat from under the hood...

I have an electric fan (from a Chevy HHR) cooling my radiator. The radiator does not have a transmission cooler in it so I have combo trans/oil cooler sitting flat(no blocking the rad) with its own electric fan. I run about 190 degrees on my 418 stroker. Edited: Should have been 190° not 290°

Thanks, It didn't require any cutting of the rad support. We fabbed a couple of mounting brackets.

Chevy HHR fan on a Champion 26" radiator. It requires cutting the plastic cover off of the motor, mounting the fan motor on the other side of the fan mounting and modifications to mount it to the radiator. That's the downside, the upside is that this radiator only cost $50 through RockAuto (...

I haven't tried using them yet but I will try them when I get home from this business trip.. should be home Thursday afternoon.

Ah, Thanks guys, It's been so long since there's been anything connected to them that I didn't remember. I will probably connect them later today. Thanks for the help.

Hey Guys, I finally decided to connect my defroster hoses up after after about 35 years (don't drive the car in rain or snow so I never needed them). Anyway I ordered a new hose kit from Classic Industries only to find that I am missing the splitter (see attached picture from the manual). Any...

No it was actually a 1/8" piece of steel.. It had to be stiff enough to not flex when the foam pushed on it. We tack welded a air cleaner base to the plate, painted the plate black and used chrome door edge guard on the edge to dress it up. Make the edge guard on the long side as it will shrink...

I will look.

Thanks, I'll look at it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ok so this was what we came up with for sealing the hood to the carb/ throttle body when I had the supercharged engine. Just have to change the height of the foam under the scoop.

I had it done when I had the supercharger but now that it's NA I have to redo it.

Yeah it was good until I took it on its first highway drive to Carlisle. I got about 100 miles out and I started noticing smoke coming out from under my car. Now I tried to reason to myself that the smoke was actually coming from my buddy Larry's '64 Barracuda (because I was following him and it...

Yeah this has GOT to stop. 3rd time since I put in the new engine. I only have 700 miles on it. I bought one of the Wagner dual flow PCV valves. According to their testing it keeps the crankcase under vacuum 99% of the time. It's expensive $129.00 but if it saves me from ever replacing another...

Yep, I didn't seal the scoop to the throttle body. I had it sealed when I had the supercharged engine but haven't gotten around to sealing it on this one. The engine is coming out this weekend (for the 3rd time) to fix a reoccurring main seal leak, maybe I'll just address it then.

Mine seal perfectly. They were made with flexible nubs on them that allow them to move freely.

I also forgot to mention that I drilled a couple of holes in the shroud and installed a couple of rubber flaps that open at speed allowing more air to pass through the radiator. They were cheap to buy and came 4 in a pack. I am considering installing the other 2 just to see if I can keep it at...

I think it was a Robert Shaw

I have almost exactly the same configuration you have. 1969 340 block .040 over and 4" Molnar crank (418). Edlebrock aluminium heads, Fitech EFI, Champion 26" aluminium with a electric fan for a Chevy HHR ($50.00 brand new from Amazon but has to be slightly modified), 190 degree high flow...

One more thing, I bought a package of rubber flaps, I drilled a couple of holes in the shroud and put the rubber flaps over the holes. This allows more air through the radiator when driving down the road. They were cheap and you got 4 of them in the package (I only used 2)

Yeah it was tight but trust me this fan works. You might also want to consider a small fan on your transmission cooler. One can never have enough cooling.

I had to cut the plastic from the back of the fan motor and space the motor forward. I will also get a few more close-up pics for you.

I am on my way home from my corporate office in Boston, I will measure when I get home.

Here are the pictures.

I too have a Champion radiator on my 418 stroker. I use a puller fan from a Chevy HHR (it has to be modified to fit). I also have a small fan on my trans/engine oil cooler as well. Both are controlled by my Fitech fuel injection. My car runs as hot as 195° when driving down the road and drops to...

I used one from a Chevy HHR, $50.00 from Amazon brand new. It will require mods, I am running the Champion 22" aluminum rad and it keeps my 418 Stroker just below 200°. I will get pics.

Looking forward to the results Jpar. Let us know.