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750 cfm

Do a cylinder leak down test just put air in cylinder with valves closed ,you can level engine and fill block with water and look for bubbles coming from water jacket with intake off ,on another note make sure your intake bolts are not to long and bottom out in the end holes they may feel...

Did you retorque intake manifold check for vacuum leak around runner those metal gaskets can leak over time they usually leak on the end cylinders

I would use the stock cast manifold

I have used the stock 340 cam with good results

Put the intake on without gaskets and see if it works ,then remove the cork seals and use silicone

No the oil singer groves at the rear of the crankshaft is left handed where the seal rides and will pull oil past the rear seal and leak

Looks like someone didn't clearance the oil pump to the longer stroke crankshaft

Maybe some TBI parts or gaskets different from carb parts

Snap rings pop out I've sleeved many 340 because that cheap snap ring popped out after many miles from the factory also /6

Mine are the same way for early 340

Did you modify the left mount on the k member and redrill with temp plate that came with kit?

He does have the lowest hp dyno I've ever seen and he has trouble hitting up goals for stock engines

Old springs are good for cam break in , then upgrade them later

Check under the carb for vacuum leak does it have a plate under it ? Some times one is needed because of a spread bore to square bore carb to intake alone ment

Make sure the egr is working right and engine temp is 195*

Maybe the camshaft tunnel is not straight the machine shop can tell

Does it have the rocker arm spacers the ones under the shaft bolts in the wrong place they are different with or is it a big block rocker mixed in with smaller block

Off set the intake port to remove push rod pinch come up with a stamp steel intake rocker arm that looks and fits like a stock one so we can use this head with out a highly priced after market ones ,if I used a cam with 500 lift and the head flows 50 cfm better that may be all I want not...

If you have a marine engine and its left handed the groves are reversed don't get them mixed up or you will never stop the leak

on the seal I believe they stopped the knurling when the switched to rubber seals ,rope seals needed the knurling to pull oil away from the seal

Did you drop something into the spark plug hole ? Did you run engine with compression tester hooked up? It can burn out the check valve and not hold compression

You can leave it sit over night and it will bleed down or pull coil wire and bump it a few times if you don't want it to start it will adjust its self

Start the engine and run it then retest compression to give lifter time to adjust

Maybe the high volume pump needs more room to pull the extra oil

Looks to me the dist shaft may be too long and the dist needing shimed up with the shaft binding I would look a the oil pump bottom pump plate. For heavy wear

Will.it rev over 5200 in park or netural?

With the long skirt I would say it started life as a 340 piston with a offset ground crank to raise it up more

Sounds a little low but only a few mph. Would think18 could be done i would change carb To vacuum secondary

should be easy