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Run a hot wire to coil from battery and see if it starts

Burned laying on exhaust pipe my guess

are they both duel points there likely verry close

not everything that looks the same works the same /could have resistors or Diaos between terminals for different aps.

have someone crank the engine then hold each cable until one of them gets hot ,you found the problem cable .

when I raced we would use the gold box and bead blast it and repaint it black put a stamped on in with a made up number.

you can extend the tip of the plug or recess it and still have the same range

a lot of time it depends on your fuel mixture / spark plug gap / as in how fast can the spark jump the plug gap.

with a test light touch the neg side of coil while someone cranks the motor over ,does the test light blink ? if it does replace the coil and if it doesn't check the pick up in dist with a ohm meter or rubbed wires going to the box ,also check the plug on top of engine for loose pins

I used one on my dirt car a cheating way to have traction control when needed

sometimes on the back of the alt

use a relay with a diode in it or it can feed back when on.

don't use a early black cap on electronic dist they will crack

you said this problem happened on the way back after race / compression is fine so if that many cylinders are miss firing I would agree with a fuel or electrical issue not the engine itself

was the compression test good ?if so cam is not twisted you would have different reading because of late valve opening events. run a leak down test on engine to check for slightly bent valves. I DID PULL A FERD ENGINE THAT HAD A MISS ON LAST 2 CYLINDERS THE CAM SNAPED BUT RAN JUST FINE.

wouldn't the timming be the same with a twisted cam on 1&6, but the camshaft valve timing off

did I miss something, what fixed his wont run problem? 5deg off wont give him the running issues

don't forget that when the timing marks are dot to dot you are firing on #6 cylinder but you can time the engine on # 1or 6 with your light

did you test it at the rated operation temp, all those reading will change!

I've seen some early point type used on electronic dist crack because they were lighter material ,and couldn't handle the hotter spark and they interchanged

are you trying to solve a problem ? that seems like a slow long curve for a mopar unless its under boost.

I would also go with the dist pick up I just went through the same problem and it was the pickup if you have a heat gun just heat up dist and see if problem occurs

it is wired backwards neg side to points, noise suppressor to bat post with hot wire from resistor

that dist all ready has a coil in the cap, why noy try it first before replacing it?

try backing down the eng timing a few degs and see if it cranks faster or just pull coil wire off and ground it to the engine and see if it turns over faster, if it does your timing may need to be set back a few degs

does it crank at the normal speed or slower?

the switch will not park unless the dash is screwed to the frame it needs this to ground the switch

watch out for the lean burn no advance dist don't use it.

I don't think you have a chain problem with 20'' vacuum ,how are your plug wires and other tune up parts?

some of those were only 35/45 amps does your electric fan run all the time could be using more amps then alt can supply