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The dash pot is new and works properly. I will check that adjustment.

An update. I rebuilt a nice untouched 6322s, Phenolic body looked perfect. Installed some 137 secondary jets, 95 primary with 1966 rods. Idling issues have been resolved. Starts with the touch of the key after sitting for an hour and doesn’t run extremely rich at an idle. I also installed a ME...

Scraping at the suspected crack with a pocket knife. Zero epoxy is coming off and it feels like there is a few thousands difference in height between one side or the other of the line. Maybe the rebuild company put epoxy over the crack to try and cover it. This is what I saw last week leaving a...

I did adjust it. But I found fuel dripping into the primary blades and into the intake from somewhere.

It sure felt like a crack. I will clean it up with some scotch brite and see if the epoxy comes off.

I decided to pull my trouble carb apart again while waiting for my rebuild kits. I think I found the problem. A crack by the main well. I filled the bowls up with fuel and can’t get a leak. It must pull fuel through the crack with vacuum when the engine is running. Anybody know where I could...

I will make sure to keep that in mind. Thank you

I will have to give him a call. That’s only a 2 hour drive from my place. It might be worth it for him to restore the rare 71 carb I have.

After looking the number up I noticed they were a one year only carb. Looks to be in very nice condition except it’s missing the linkage connecting the secondary air door and choke. Sounds like that’s going to be hard to find.

I looked the part number up on eBay, I was surprised! Merry Christmas to me I guess. I will update this thread once I get the rebuild kit and a proper PCv valve.

I may just order an adjustable PCV valve. If you put a 1/8 orfice in your PCV line, won’t that equate to oil leaks and crankcase pressure at cruise because you don’t have the high PCV flow anymore?

Looks like that would be the 6322s. Looks to be off of a 73 440. Are brass floats the way to go? Or plastic?

At this point I think I am going to shelve this particular reman carb. My dad has collected lots of mopar parts over the years and he has never ran a Thermoquad. He has always been a Holley guy. I found a few Thermoquads he has stored for years. I found a 4972s that looks quite different from...

After running the car today and noticing smoke or fuel vapor after shutting the car off, I couldn’t see where the fuel is coming from. I removed the carb and set it in the table for a few minutes. Picked it up and kept the carb level, looked at the bottom of the base plate and it was drenched...

The can starts advancing at 12 inches of vacuum. This engine makes 9-10 at idle. The distributor was set up by FBO. He set it up for 18 initial and 34 all in. Advance adds around 14

I pinched off the pcv hose and the car wanted to die.

I hooked a vacuum pump to the vacuum advance and advanced it to 32 degrees and the idle went up 175 rpm. I was able to back the idle screw out about 1-1.25 turns to get it to idle around 900rpm. Still have smoke coming out of the exhaust. Passenger side idle mixture screw doesn’t kill the engine...

I don’t think so. Where would I check that?

I haven't advanced the timing yet. I will try that tomorrow. Seems like most people run around 16-20 for a daily driver. I am not sure how well the car will start with 30 degrees at idle. I just have the stock electronic ignition with no start retard. The blades are already just about closed...

I definitely have .040 or less of the t slot showing

Here is a video of it running. I don’t see any fuel leaking from the booster. You can hear the whistle from the shaft. Car is idling around 900 rpm. Yesterday I was able to kill the car with both idle mixtures screws. Today I am only able to kill it with one. The other screw does change the idle...

Do people drill out the air bleeds on Thermoquads to clean up the idle or just drill the primary butterflies?

Removed carb and set transfer slots a little over square. Replaced o-rings with some viton 3/8 1/16 thick. Reinstalled carb and it runs good at 2 turns out on the idle mixture screws now but still pig rich at idle. And hard to do a hot restart without holding throttle halfway open, then comes...

i know the o-rings are there. they were a x ring style. they were still pliable. I will take some measurements tomorrow. The fuel wells looked intact, but i didn't test those for leakage.

After messing with the carb today and getting a good look at the metering rod tree, it wasn’t bouncing up and down, but just rattling back and forth.

After I got the carb adjusted to run 850-900 rpm at idle and about 4 turns out in the mixture screws, I pulled it to look at the transfer slot. (Very very rich idle, and wanting to stall when starting in first and reverse. This is a stick car with 3.55s) The transfer slot is barely visible...

I pulled the carb apart and found the floats set about 3/16 low. Reset floats to 29/32, and cleaned out all passages. Found the idle screw about 3/16 of an inch shorter than another Thermoquad I had laying around. I was able to get the car running with the idle mixtures about 4 turns out. Car...

I flipped the carb upside down and the primaries have the transfer slot hidden with the idle screw at about three turns from seated. The second photo is with the idle screw maxed out. Also one transfer port is cut with a taper and isn’t square.

Is it normal for these carburetors to make a slight whistle when feathering the throttle to keep it running?

This is a manual disc brake car. The metering rods looked like they were “bouncing” a little bit when I did get it to idle. I will pull the carb and check the gasket and set the transfer slots. If I currently set transfer slots like you say and back the timing off, this thing will not idle at...