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If you turn a suregrip round with only one shaft in the axle, the splines in the suregrip unit will be misaligned so when you put the other shaft in it wont bottom out/fully seat the way it is supposed too. It is possible thats what happened. Both shafts should slip in and fully seat without...

Here you go

I'm pleased with my B&M Quicksilver shifter. Simple install too.

I did one with no previous experience and it turned out good. I gathered information from internet and read up a lot before I started. I was also lucky that I could borrow all the tools needed. It took me probably ten times longer or more than it would someone with experience. You will need...

Crackedback was faster then me :)

It could also be the splines in the diff that is misaligned. This would happen if you turn one axle without having the other axle installed. Hook up the driveshaft, put the shifter in Park, install the axle as far as it will go and use a long prybar to turn the axle while pushing inward. The...

I'm also thinking about that one. Not sure if I want the Tight or the Medium. Turbo Action recommends the medium on their web site. This is my combo: 1970 duster 1965 - 273 commando Cam: Comp Cams Magnum 282S - 282/282 Lift 495/495 (solid) Beehive Springs Edelbrock D4B intake / Holley 670...

Thank you TrailBeast. Appreciated.

Hi. I've tried google, but I cant seem to find any info about what a 10" converter may weigh roughly? A friend might be able to ship one for me, I just need to figure out the weight roughly.

I have a B&M quicksilver so I have tried both. If in drive, it does take of in first. If I cruise and stomp it, it will either shift to second or first depending on speed. So the tranny shifts perfect. I really appreciate your help. Like txstang84 wrote: "could the same thing be done by...

The stuff on the picture actually was plastic and came from the brand new oil spill jug. Thats a relief. No metal, no bronze in the oil, it does not smell burnt either.

Here is some more info for you. When I start up my engine when its cold it fast idles at 1500 rpm until reaching operating temp and then it drops down to normal idling. My converter used to slip enough for me to easily drop it into drive/reverse at 1500 rpm. Now it's not like that. I could also...

I hear you and I can take it, no worries. Before tearing down the tranny I would greatly appreciate some input on the picture I posted. Anybody? I also have this thread going on the engine in the smallblock section if you have the time: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=277904

I'm not sure it's the converter yet. It's my first build ever, came from no experience, learning by doing, reading, doing wrong, correcting etc.Believe me when I tell you that putting together a car like this in Sweden is anything but cheap. Buying parts from the US, shipping, customs, you get it.

I hear you guys. Transman, thank you for your input. I have a drain plug in the front of the trans so I did a quick lift and drained the oil, I did not get it all out cause I had to lift the car up front, it's not very much space where I have the car so I could not lift it out back tonight. I...

Hello! I have another thread going on in the small block tech about sudden loss of get up and go power. Here it is if you are interested: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=277904 My car is all of a sudden sluggish of the line and I cant for my life understand whats wrong...

I have used a 10" 4000 stall on the street. It is not fun. I had 3.55 and 255/60-14 tires. I t was an expensive converter too. Anyway, dont go buy more stall because it wont idle as you like it. A converter will act differently for many reasons. Cam is one of them. I changed cam in my and it...

It's a 8 3/4 im working on. Thanks again for input everyone!

x2

This will never be used on the street as I said in my first post.

Dont worry to much. This will not be used on the street at all. I have a perfectly set up 3.55 with a sure grip that I renovated and put together myself. However, that cost a lot of money because these things is not something you can go to your local store and pick up. Everything has to be...

Thanks for all the input! I think I will try and weld it. I did a google search and found this picture.

Thanks guys. I'll look into finding a spool here in Sweden. Still curious on how you weld these things though, any one with experience?

Hello! I've got my hands on a 742 diff with a 4.86 open ratio. This one will only ever be used on the track. I currently have a 741 3.55 sure grip unit that I put together myself. Now I live in Sweden and it cost quite a lot to buy the sure grip and the other parts to renovate and put that one...

I have same gear back, 14" wheels and a hot rodded 273 commando with a solid 495 lift comp cams. I've been through 3 different converters. The stock one, a 10" 4000 stall tci super streetfighter and now I try a 2500 stall B&M. I like to change things around so Im not afraid to get my hands dirty...

The remains of the old wheel stud came out easily, just tapped it with the hammer. Then I used washers and a wheel nut to press the new stud in place. Did not need to pull the axle. Thanks to all who chimed in on this! Best regards Robert

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. I feel confident to get the job done without pulling the axle now. Thanks!

I broke a wheel stud on my 8 3/4 axle. Its the passenger side. Is it possible to replace it without removing the axle shaft? It's the small bolt pattern 7/16 studs. Thanks in advance!

Jack just one of the rear tires of the ground, then try to rotate that one forwards. If you can, then its open, if you cant = suregrip

I moved the shifter forward so it cleared everything. Think I got the cable routed nice and away from the headers also. Not completely done yet but soon hopefully!