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it is a better money spent on a quality aftermarket rod than to resize any. always align hone when using studs on the mains if removing bolts. fyi ive ran bolts to 850hp and held fine at 8800rpms in a big and small chevy with big compression 15:1+

was a 348...now a 411in 10.5:1 monster twin 75mm turbos, hellcat blocked stroker setup with ported biggas heads inconel valve and filled intake valves.

that was my dads 50 f1 racetruck that i own. big chevy tunnel ram etc.. it runs pretty good

my tiny little 348

it is even harder when you know what you want and need. yet the builder wants to give you less than steller parts. cant do that in a race engine. had one wanting to run a stock pressure/volume oil pump in my 15:1 bbchevy. told him to gtfo with that crap. also been told one couldnt run...

it was off topic before that. just kept the derailment on path. lol

he says he "had the car built".

you telling us your 2006 monte carlo ran 144mph in the 1/4 mile but only 14.2 et???

stock gen3 hemi block will take 1500hp. start with that and save the trouble of finding heads for an la engine that do t touch the stock gen3 truck head eagles. add a stock 6.1 crank good rods and pistons and main n head studs. you got my engine pretty much and im after 1500hp with a turbo...

no. if you had 11.5-12.5:1 compression. its plausable then. cam has lots to do with it and that is a pretty mild cam for 500hp 360" mild compression motor. id say probably 400-425 at most my very well flowing gen3 hemi will make around 600-650 but my compression is higher than yours as are...

what dampner are you running? if it has an elastomer in the center of it. mark it with a bright white or yellow across from both sides. see if its moving more than an 1/8" to one direction. they do wiggle some but it could have slipped at initial fire and you never knew it. is it internal...

nope nodular ford cranks ring and are cast. as do many other cast cranks ring. if you can drop the pan enough to see the casting line on one of the crank counter weights is best. cast will be a small casting line about 1 mm thick or hairline casting mark.. forged will have a wide 1/2"...

yea retorque is a must after reaching operating temp on a new engine. some require it regularly if using alum heads for high perf.

id check for block deck being flat and true. also the head as well in that area as well. are you sure all the head bolts had been torqued properly and still to spec torque before removing heads? anything seem out of place as it was being disassembled? loose intake bolts or intake gasket not...

K1 rods are 4340E billet rods. Tough sum bitches i heard.

Stock cast lower parts I would never rev over 5500. Dont care what valve train you have. Cast parts are weak. If you want to rev to 6500 and up forged is a must. 5500ish is my limits for cast parts. A touch over wont hurt. Remember the tug and shove of the rods big ends. Even a good rod...

Making me subscribe to see if ya got it fixed. You should be a salesman. Lol

Ivd got newgen hemi jack. I don't know what a distributor is... j/k I considering at Having a box made for efi on top of the lower to mine so I can keep my stock hood. Not a big hood scoop or cowl fan anymore. Kinda like the flat hood stock look to it. Make people wonder how much monster...

Bumpskee

Subscribing, I plan on a lower efi(5.7 new gen) and making a sheet metal box top for my throttle body. Should work with a large turbo setup with very little restriction. I hope anyways.