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I think that's a good looking wheel for that car. Bonus if you can obtain them inexpensively. Is that the Jeep 15x7 you referred to in your first post?

@33IMP - Good to know. I've seen them advertised as 5x115mm but had assumed they were simply being erroneously rounded up from 114.3. @CzechItOut - Yes ID of Ford wheels need to be opened up a bit.

To answer your other question regarding Late model Challenger/Charger wheels. On most "A" body cars an 18" diameter wheel is about the max diameter you can run on the front and clear the body structure. And to run those you need an very low profile tire. Many of the new Challenger/Charger wheels...

On the Valiant Patrol car I run the 15x7 police wheels which clear fine. I've also found that the Ford Crown Vic (mesh 16x7)/Lincoln LSC (finned 16x7) wheels from late '80's-early 90's pictured here clear as well. They are the one or two types of newer car wheels showing up in junk yards around...

If you replace your lower ball joints you need to order the ones for the disk brake application or use the ones off of your disk brake donor. I can't confirm this but someone told me recently that the '73-'76 10" drum brake lower ball joints are the same as the disk brake ones in those years. So...

I don't know of any aftermarket manufacturers offering a small bolt pattern conversion. That doesn't mean they wouldn't drill their rotors for the SBP if you asked. An original system is probably the most cost effective. The original systems are offered for sale on here or you can post a wanted ad.

Normally I'd agree with other posters who preferred the bonded shoes given the improvement in adhesive technology over the last couple decades. But recently I purchased new disk pads for my '90 D350 truck from Autozone and one of the pads separated. By the time I got home the new rotor was also...

I used to have mine relined at a company in Wilmington, CA called Friction Materials. He mostly relined Semi truck brake shoes and clutch disks. If you have cores you could probably find a place to reline them near you.

You are better off buying the later disk brake lower ball joints. By the time your done drilling the earlier units to fit the later disk spindle bolts there may not be sufficient material/strength in the ball joint body depending on who made it.

Introducing air in the opposite direction comes seem logical but may just force the piston referenced by 67Dart273 to shift to the other extreme and shut down the fluid supply to the front. I'd still try it but would consider using less air pressure.

There were some small diameter, dual diaphram, boosters used from '67 to 69 that might work with your big block. The firewall bracket can be from any "A" body from 67 - 76. The factory clearanced the valve covers for this booster type and it was still a tight fit. If your going to have...