Search results for query: *

yes , that's how I always did it anyway. Just did one last week changing over from a column shift auto with manual box to a non column automatic / 4 speed column with manual box .There is lots going on up top ,a bearing ,cir clip, and so on and that big coupling on the bottom .It's a 5 or 10...

I found one here Mopar A B Body 62-66 Lower Steering Column End Seal

Does anyone know where I can buy a new lower seal for a 65 Valiant steering column ? Mine is toast and I'm rebuilding a column as part of the resto of my 65 valiant wagon . It's the rubber piece that the shaft passes thru at the very bottom of the outer tube that I'm looking for.

Well,this is why most of us do our own work.It's not rocket science and with some reading and patience anyone can learn this stuff.Most of it is just nuts & bolts .

Looks to me like someone did some real shoddy work on this car . No good mechanic would ever leave front end bolts loose .I'd start checking the entire car before I took it out again

Could also be on the lower control arm where the adjustment is.If the bar isn't broken these are the only places where the failure can take place

My money is on the weld that holds the rear end of the bar to the cross member frame let go and the whole mount turned on the frame

no because the shaft dia is a different size on the power steering vs the manual steering and one type is used on power and the other type is used on manual

yes

drill a hole and screw one in

convertibles have a slight wiggle in the cowl sometimes. It's just the way it is.

most all early A's with a 6 came with 323 7 1/4 in them .they are everywhere

People give them to me all the time and I usually end up giving them away to someone in need.I just keep a spare for each of my A bodies because you never know and when you need one the chances of finding one are pretty slim and getting slimmer all the time. Don't scrap it but don't expect much...

I used poly on my 65 Barracuda front end and hated it.It was stiff and squeaked every time I went over a driveway apron or speed bump. This was back in the mid 90's when they were just starting to push it .It may be better now but I'll never find out.I go for OEM

My Valiant station wagon had 7 leaves and it handled and rode great !

yes I used all MOOG stuff in my front ends back then .

they go on front and on the back side of the K and the big washer goes on before the bolt and if I remember right also on the rod in the back. I think they also face cup out but again,it's been some years since the last front end job.Later ones have drilled holes for cotter pins these are way...

What year car ?

you have to drill them to the larger bolt size .That is the only difference between the drum brake ball joint and the disc one.It is the same casting and ball unit which is why you are seeing it listed as fitting both.

The spacers would be easy enough to make. I have air shocks in my 65 Valiant wagon to help with the weight I carry up to my camp. You know ,camping gear tools generator chain saw .All that stuff is heavy. They bolted right in .I have a 7 1/4 rear but I can't see how that would make a difference...

I would use everything from and for the 73 parts car . I converted a 67 Valiant from 6 to 8 and used a 71 duster I had for all the parts like the K and the motor mount brackets and center link .Then I used all new parts for a 71. It worked out real well and was like factory when finished

Well ,I have been driving Valiants and Barracudas with 9 in brakes as my daily drivers since 1973 and never once had or heard of this happening.I guess if you beat the crap out of your cars it's a possibility but me,I just drive them and use them in a normal fashion .Not into all this altering...

I have 9 inch brakes on both my A bodies

Pull them out and get new ones . There is something very wrong here and you don't want to go spreading anything in your front end to make it fit !

I'd buy the non sway bar LCA's and sell the ones with the LCA tabs before I butchered up valuable parts

They go backwards .I know,I had the same problem wrapping my mind around that but that's what the instructions call for. The theory I guess is that when you put pressure on the middle they expand outward towards the outer edges and tighten everything up.

I have had the new kind in my wagon for the past 15 years with no problems at all. They are Moog brand

All you are doing is replacing parts. It's not to difficult and doesn't really require any special tools or skills.What is really important is to take all the tension off the torsion bars first so when you break the ball joints free it doesn't slam down and hurt you. I actually used a pipe...

I usually squirt grease in all of that with every other oil change .

I have one in my 65 Valiant station wagon