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When you cooked your brakes you probanly cooked the seals in the wheel cylinder and the axle seal as well.Better check them or it well get real messy in there.Been there done that

Yeah the finned ones are later and the non finned ones are from the early 60's up to around 68 or there about . They interchange

You could try some CRC disc brake quiet gue .You put it on the back side of the pads and it quiets this kind of noise down.It's like silicon sealant that takes up that space between the piston and the pad.I use it all the time on my 76 Dodge Aspen and my 71 Chevy C20 's disc brakes Advance Auto...

I had them failing on my 65 valiant back in the 70's ! They're crap

Use the later style Those early style are weak and can cause your brake shoes to wear unevenly and wear out faster. You may have to use a washer on the post due to the larger hole in the backing plate

Go to a shop that makes hydraulic lines for trucks and equipment with your old lines and have a set of steel braided ones made. That's how I'm dealing with them on all my cars as I replace them. I even used them on my rusty old 71 Chevy C20 pick up that I use for work. This truck had a one...

Ask any guy who drivers a big truck . These places are all over the place.Heavy equipment all need this service ,snow plows back hoes farm equipment

Just go to a shop and have them made .I did that and it didn't cost any more that the rubber crap in the end.Did it on all my motorcycles with juice brakes too and even my ratty 1971 Chevy C20 Do it once and forget about them use rubber and every 3 or 4 years you can start to wonder when they...

I'd replace the sensor the for the oil light and see if the problen goes away before I made a big deal out of it.They do go bad

That's because it wasn't done this way .These cars came with self adjusting brakes with a whole different set up,What you have looks like 1950's ford with that spring over the adjusting wheel.It works but you have to improvise because it's not a stock arangement and there is no such thing as the...

USE THE RIGHT STUFF !

This block also incorporates a ground switch to activate an idiot light if you loose line pressure in either front or rear systems.

I'm sure someone on here has two or three lying around . If I have an extra I'll let you know but I think I don't

I wouldn't do it that way especially if you are trying to get it to be inspected by a system that does not tolerate any alterations.USE THE CORRECT STUFF FOR A 67 and you will have no problems with the inspector. It will look and act correct

67 drum brake master with the 67 -72 metering block will be as close to factory as you can get. It will look correct and work exactly the way it is supposed to work. I used this set up when I restored my 65 Barracuda back in the 1990's It's a bolt in job with no modification at all .You are...

yes ,they were.I had a 65 Valiant in the late 80's with all original power drum brakes and they were 9 inch .It had a 170 cu in slant with an automatic . You just need the booster and the right pedal assembly that goes with it . It's a goofy thing that offsets the master & booster so it will...

I have been doing this with all my cars and motorcycles.I take the old ones in and they make me better lines than anything out there that is rubber.They don't swell when you hit the brakes like the rubber ones do and you have a stronger feel in the pedal or hand lever in the motorcycles and you...

no and I have both if you need. the 10 is longer

After you get all the cylinders and lines worked out contact Craig (MOBILEPARTS ) his user name here . This is an ad he posted a while ago. I bought some and I gotta tell you,it is a different car with the asbestos brake shoes. His ad : mobileparts Hey, everybody --- Great News ---- I have...

Not worth the trouble ? I wouldn't put all sorts of time effort,and money into a 53 year old car and drive it with a single master cylinder.There is a good reason the govt mandated that all cars and trucks have dual master cylinders in 1967. When one of those rubber hoses breaks( it happens ) or...

To be fair to 9 inch brakes the reason they don't stop any good now for us driving with them 50 years after the fact is the fact that they took the asbestos out of the lining material. Back when these cars were new I used to slam on the brakes and the wheels would lock up,the tires would...

I had 65 273/235 4bbl car that had everything but the in dash tach and the S badges from the factory and it had 10's,heavy springs,2 1/4 in exhaust the cut out in the rear valance for the resonator sway bar and a 4 speed This was in the mid 1980's

No wonder they went bankrupt by the 1980's and had to have us bail them out

I'm looking in the master parts catalog (genuine MOPAR not a reprint) for 1965 and everything in there for 9 inch brakes indicated 6 cyl. Go figure . I don't doubt what you are saying but it has to be real rare . The V8 cars have heavier torsion bars , a heavier center link ,heavier leaf springs...

learn something new every day . I never saw it that's for sure

Never saw a V8 car with 9 in brakes Maybe in 64 when they first introduced the small block 273 they did some but I really doubt it.

All 8 cylinder A body cars from 64 on until they went to front disc and big center hole in the 70's had 10 inch drums .Only 6 cylinder cars had 9's This doesn't mean you won't find 8 cylinder cars with 9's. People tend to use what ever they can when they need to get on the road and these cars...

The spring is attached to the push rod with that flat washer like clip that fits into a grove on the rod at the proper height. I use silicon fluid in all my brake systems both drum and disc .It doesn't absorb H2O from the atmosphere like dot 3 or 4

They put it there for a reason and drilling two little holes and running a tap thru them so the mount for the boot can be attached seems like a smart thing to do to me and I'd want it on my car just because of that .But , hey,to each his own.

Dust and other dirt is abrasive and kills the seals.They designed it with a boot for a reason