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whole point of the kit is to move them in for wider tires. moving the springs inside the rail gains nothing since the rail is still in the way. also loses some stability since the springs are so far inboard. even with them under the rails I noticed a difference in body roll.

my 72 dart went 10.6 with 002-003 SS springs and a snubber. car would have easily gone faster with that set up. just never got around to it.

reminds me of when I did mine, used a piece of 1/2" tubing slid into the stock hangers. used it to make sure everything was in line with the stock mounts.

I am running the 1.03 bars on my 66 with a slant. they are awesome, I cheaped out on the shocks for now ( KYB's ) will do some Bilstien's at some point. no sway bar yet, the bars made a Huge difference. car drives Much nicer, can go around a corner and feel planted.

I have Poly on my 66, used it on the last 3 cars I put together. make sure you lube it when assembling and you wont have squeaks. ( or at least I haven't ) im running 73 up style disc's and larger torsion bars ( PST 1.03 bars ) much firmer than stock.

yep, what these guys said. BIGGER T bars, sway bar wont be great with all the weight on the front end but it will be Much better. I drove my 72 with the big block and drag bars for a summer. felt like you had to come to a stop to make a turn it was so soft up front. 1.04 bars helped some, a...

could it be off an F body? that would be the right side for the F body. they had the caliper mounted in front of the spindle.

I just cleaned up and smoothed the edges on my magnum manifold and ran a 1/4 shim under both mounts. was cheaper than finding someone to mill those manifolds

I removed a couple inches off mine, switched to the borgesen style coupler to get some room when I had the 318 in the car. worked nicely

65 is a solid shaft, no collapsing column

I have larger T bars and wish I would have sprung for the Bilsteins. the KYB's will have to do until I find a different place to use these.

I have been looking at those for a while. was thinking of using those to replace the rails on my Dart.

love my 1.03 bars on my slant Valiant. drives So much better!

frame connectors and bigger T bars are a must, if you want to drive it on the street at all. I have tried with drag bars or smaller than stock BB bars. not fun

I replaced the bushings in my lowers and swapped to tubular uppers and strut rods with a heim joint. I did the uppers because I was swapping to disc brakes and needed the bigger joint. the old strut rods were Toast threads stripped. run the same set up on my dart, will do the same to the rest...

cheaper and lighter than stock... stock is aluminum this is cast iron? how does that work?

something looks off with that bushing/control arm.

I have the PST bars in my car and love em. with the 383 you will probably want a stiffer bar to support that extra weight. my valiant has the 1.03? bars in it same as I ran in my big block dart. gives a little stiffer ride but improved the handling a ton in my opinion.

the amount of suspension travel you are left with, I would be willing to guess it would effect other things as well.

I have a set that I used for years on my Dart then when it was taken apart I moved them onto my Valiant. no issues, no wear. I do occasionally wipe them down and lightly oil them once a year. I got mine from RMS not that I think anyone's are all that much different

i'm with Dave & 72, do yourself a favor and buy new axles. you can get them ordered to run your current brakes or upgrade to the B & E body rears. if your brakes are old, I would upgrade as the a body rear drums can be a pita to find new sometimes. plus more brakes are always a good thing IMHO.

pretty sure someone makes spring hanger shims. 1/8" don't see a reason you couldn't stack two of them. I would use longer grade 8 bolts when doing it.

Joe pretty much nailed it. Offset bushings in one arms are fine. No need for the extra cost.

I personally would love to follow the build of your Bobcat. something about the Bobcat/Pintos are just cool to me. doesn't hurt that my dad is a pretty die hard ford/mercury guy

the P4500268 is listed as the stock Heavy duty replacement, the P4120863 is listed as a super stock spring. the super stocks will be much higher. even the oe might be an 1" higher than what you have if they are old & worn out. hope that help ya out.

pretty sure the axle is already on the top of the springs....... get some lowering blocks and longer u bolts.

I used some cheapo 5/8" ? all thread. just fit inside of the bushing hole for the uppers. did throw a little grease on the threads. always ran the poly lower bushings so I just torched the rubber out of the lower sleeve and ran a wire wheel in the inside of the old bushing housing.

Someone does make a replacement panel for that area. I'm with Rusty, an occasional hose out would be easier. Plus I"m sure most of us will never drive these cars in the mudd or snow again.

yeah, the Plymouth can be somewhat of an Odd duck since it had independent suspension from the factory. even the mustang II swap usually involves a stub for the Plymouth. they sell dropped uprights and rack kits. I just don't know that they will fit my bill. I would really like to add some...

Denny, I believe the 40 is rear steer. the kits I have seen are all rear steer for the 40's Plymouths. I have contemplated adapting the A body steering to my 47 Plymouth more than once. just seems like a lot more work than a Mustang II based kit.