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Available from Inline, Right Stuff, Fine Lines... The rear tubes meet in a T on the axle housing. And yeh, if you had rust that bad under there. Chances are you are needing all the brake lines. Pretty much anything can be fixed or replaced on these cars. Just time and money... LOL

I'd run them. Probably better steel than a brand new set. I'd probably hit the rust with a red scotchbrite pad.

All the same except if it has sway bar or not. (a very worthwhile upgrade for any old Mopar) And if it does- there are older/newer mount type. I have seen different style pins from LCA to Kframe. Not sure if they all interchange.

I got brake lines from Inline, fuel from Fine Lines and trans cooler from Right Stuff. All are OEM style. Only issue I had was the ends going to trans cooler were not at the right position, but probably just that I ordered the wrong ones thinking they were same. Good quality from any of these...

I think Inline Tube sells all the clips. I'm sure there are other sources.

1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Brake Valve Seal Kit | Muscle Car Research LLC I have not used their seal kit. But the info from the site was very helpful making one good one from 2.

looks good,what is holding the bellows on? original has a lip it goes around

I agree, could not find a repop on that plastic with bellow. I found a usable one in a yard. Here is what DMT has. Mopar A B E Body 62-76 BLACK 3 Piece Master Cylinder Gasket Set DMT | eBay

You misunderstood. It '30 seconds'... If you cant figure out the right wrench in that time, you use an adjustable, vice grips or whatever. :thumbsup:

this shows short spring front

Is the ebrake cable pulling it out of whack?

Yep, it works. Required for inspection here too. Will be registering it soon. If I go antique plate, then no inspection, but would like to at least start with everything working...

Ray @halifaxhops was doing some rear disc stuff. Maybe he can help you.

you said it 'wouldn't snug up'. I took that as just keeps turning? only reason I can think it would do that is its stripped. Its really just a ground post that contacts the a piece inside the valve and turns your brake indicator on if there is a problem. So, other than leaking, there is not...

Its just an oring in there, but if the thread is stripped...Hate to say it, but you probably need another block. The male thread is steel and the block is brass.

Front, back, both, year...??? My 75 slant has stock disc front and 10×2.5 drum rear

A little lube in the hole might help. Silicone spray? Its just a little rubber piece in there.

Master cyl push rod. It 'pops' out. Best to do while all still in car. Should be able to grab in a vice and get a fork over the part that goes in MC. Tap wit hammer.

I used Inline for my brakes and Finelines for fuel. Both were very good, accurate bends etc.

MC reservoirs should be diff sizes for disk/drum. (Will be equal if 4 drums) The larger section will go to top of the valve and closest side ports branch to the two front lines. Small section of MC goes to side of lower part of valve and through to back line

Here's a 'how to' link and parts. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/content/new-mopar-brake-valve-kit-and-rebuild-instructions

If all stock, it won't be an issue... What I was questioning is if MC was mismatched . Must be correct for all drum (equal reservoirs) or disk drum ( diff size for front and back).

Stock valve/block was not adjustable. What do you have? Disk/ drum? And what master cyl? Anything changed or stock system?

I never had to do it, but I recall someone posting a procedure to unstick the valve without opening it. Otherwise you will need to open the valve again and try to do it manually.

Pull the wire off the prop valve. If the light goes out, the slider in the valve is stuck. If it stays on, you have a problem elsewhere. Most likely the switch on the pedal.

By tap they mean 'whack the hell out of it' and you still probably won't get it out. I used a deck screw (#8 x 2-1/2" I think). Gently turn it into the recess in the end of the piston with fingers only and pull it out.

Brake line is considered to be 'tubing' which is measured by OD unlike pipe which goes by ID

I'm in Red Lion. I have manual and not much experience with old power brake systems, but think they ran same size line. I would suspect that you may still have air in lines... Keith

I thought they were all 3/16, but don't recall seeing any option. I got mine from Inline. What issues are you having?

Clean around the fittings+PB Blaster+ tapping/vibration to work it into the thread+flare nut wrench=half a chance. For my Duster, the hardest part was accepting that most of my original brake system was scrap. It was pretty easy to take apart after that. LOL