Search results for query: *

Yes Don't think it should make any difference.

or the cam lobe is worn...

According to Chilton's... "The limiting valve prevents the fuel tank from being overfilled by trapping fuel in the filler when the tank is full. When pressure in the tank becomes greater than the valve operating pressure, the valve opens and allows the gasoline vapors to flow into the charcoal...

I tried to figure this out when I did mine. I seems nobody makes one and most people either leave it out or never knew it was there. So apparently it is not essential. I cut mine off the old line flushed it out with carb cleaner and pushed it up in the hose before attaching to the vent line...

Check out this thread for the rest of the routing to the tank. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280112&highlight=Fuel+line+routing

This is on a 75 slant Duster, but should be same. There is a notch in metal that allows it to hug the frame as it makes the turn. There is another slight bend below.

Let me know if anything else needed

Another

From 74 manual

Advance Auto. part # EC224. $2.29

Dont know if the charcoal ever wears out. There is a filter pad on the bottom that can be replaced. I got one for mine at Advance. It also keeps the charcoal from falling out.

LOL, didn't realize this was that old. I guess alpha was looking for the line routing though. You can load picks from pretty much any device. Just look under the text box at options and click upload photos. Pretty easy to follow.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280112&highlight=Fuel+line+routing That thread shows the whole fuel/vent routing on a 75 Duster slant, but shouldn't vary much. Here's the shock area.

Dont know the answer, but would guess it might be more than a new carb. I wonder what appearance a rebuild would be from parts store. I did my little 1 bbl with spray paint. Misted the metalic gold and cleared it with engine enamal. Dont know how well it will hold up if it gets wet with fuel

Replace the hose. Or if it's long enough - cut the end back and reconnect it. I can't think of any reason to change a filter cause a hose leaked. Unless they were trying to sell you a filter and it comes with the little pieces of hose...

Stock lines are 5/16 fuel and 1/4 vent (return). Your return vent should go directly to the tank, and the 3/8 wont help unless you upsize the fuel line and have a carb big enough to drink from a bigger straw

Was curious also, found this- http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html

I used EPDM roofing rubber. The stuff i had was thin .030, so i cemented a couple layers together.

Check out this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=218069&highlight=Tank

The carb you got is correct for a 1975. The big open tube goes to the position i am pointing to on the charcoal canister. As for the other hole - Mine has a hose fitting pressed into the hole, but there is no opening into the carb. I just stuck a vac cap on it...

Then back the inside of the frame and over to the tank

At the wheelhouse they go up and over to the frame and then under it.

They hang from the first support bracket and clips behind the next one then goes back along the rocker

This is on 75 Duster - goes from engine bay along passenger frame rail through hole in crossmember near torsion bar. (2 piece vent line is connected with hose )

I got one from a yard that was mostly dirty with a few rust spots. I used coarse steel wool to clean it and then hit the rust spots with a wire brush. I sprayed it with Rustoleum cold galv. I didn't like the appearance, so sprayed over that with Krylon stainless steel and then topped with...

With the new filter screen on the pick-up, I would guess that gunk is mostly in the line, but there's not much space there, so should clear pretty quick. If not, you could blow it out - pressurize tank with very low air pressure through the vent line at the carbon canister. I did that to...

I dabbed the high spots of the tank with weatherstrip adhesive. Placed the pad on and pulled it back off to tack up. Then press in place. I made my pad from roofing rubber, but should work for the original tar paper type.

I'm not sure what makes the difference. I think a lot of it has to do with where they got there gas. I assume that gas stations have filters on pumps? If someone repeatedly went to a place(s) that did not maintain there pumps maybe? I replaced my duster tank because it had a big dent. Both...

So you had some fun and found out the problem- Everything... Did you get a good look in the tank? They can be pretty gunked up. Should be good for the smog test now - good luck!

Do this (actually if it smells that bad you probably don't need to wait). I would not touch the sender if you don't find a problem. I've seen a bunch of guys posting that new senders not working and either gasket or ring are undersized causing leaks.