2014 Ram 5.7 Hemi Crank, no start. Any help out there? (UPDATED)

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Coyote Jack

Coyote Jack

Member #55, I'm old
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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 Longhorn 5.7 Hemi. I drove it home 2 weeks ago and went out the next morning and it wouldn't start. It rolls over good but won't start and no spark. The only code it had was for a bad EVAP voltage. It has had that for 5 years. Things I have done.

1. Can hear fuel pump
2. Tried squirting gas into throttle body, no change.
3. Checked all fuses and relays that would have anything to do with ignition. All good.
4. Installed new PCM programmed to my VIN.
5. Checked plug and still no spark.
6. Battery fully charged.
7. New battery in Key fob.
8. Had battery unhooked overnight.

I am open to any suggestions short of junking it.

Jack
 
Does the tach move during cranking?
Red security light in cluster flashing?
 
Last edited:
MV8 said:
Does the tach move during cranking?
Red security light in cluster flashing?
Click to expand...
Yes the Tach does move so I ruled out the crank sensor. I am going to revisit that as I think I have a spare one around here somewhere.

No red security light. I checked that yesterday when I put new battery in key fob.

Jack
 
Plugs wet after cranking attempt/injectors firing?
Power to 20a fuses 63 and 64 key-on and cranking? These provide power to the coils and injectors.
 
Last edited:
MV8 said:
Plugs wet after cranking attempt/injectors firing?
Power to 20a fuses 63 and 64 key-on and cranking? These provide power to the coils and injectors.
Click to expand...
The plugs are not wet. Not sure on power to those fuses while cranking only that fuses are good.

Jack
 
Auto Shutdown Relay?

Want to make sure you can hear the fuel pump buzzing when you first turn on the key or On Button... whatever.


.
 
CFD244 said:
IIRC, an engine will run with a malfunctioning sensor, but won't start. Just spitballing here.
Click to expand...
I didn't know that one. Thanks for the heads up. The truck was not running exactly right the last time I had it out. Nothing I could put my finger on, just not right.

Jack
 
George Jets said:
Auto Shutdown Relay?

Want to make sure you can hear the fuel pump buzzing when you first turn on the key or On Button... whatever.


.
Click to expand...
Yes the fuel pump is buzzing, it shuts off about 2 seconds after the engine stops cranking. I don't know about a "Auto Shutdown Relay", I will read up on it. Thanks

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
I didn't know that one. Thanks for the heads up. The truck was not running exactly right the last time I had it out. Nothing I could put my finger on, just not right.

Jack
Click to expand...
This is sounding like old coil packs and their old hard rubber boots.

It gets to the point that stray spark grounds out to the head instead of the intended spark plug.

A simple temporary resolve is to soak down the coil packs with WD-40, their electrical connection plugs, and the rubber insulating boots down into the spark plug well.

This will help direct the hot spark to the spark plugs and not short out.

Gets to the point enough cylinders are misfiring, the auto shutdown relay could kill the injectors and spark.

Ultimately replace coil packs and rubber boots, and new spark plugs too gapped at .055 ths.

Found that Denzo coil packs and Motorcraft spark plugs were the perfect recommended replacement parts for my 2000 Ford 5.4 Triton engine.

Absolutely runs like a million bucks.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
I think I might have this figured out. I think I had two problems at the same time. I decided to go over everything again. Although the tach was moving when it cranked, the tach was not moving very much. I decided to put a new crank sensor in it just to make sure. Voila, I now had spark but still no start. So I sprayed some quick start while the wife pushed the start button and sure enough the truck started for a couple of seconds. That tells me I also had a fuel problem. Now I just have to figure out why no fuel. Probably a fuel pump but I will find out for sure tomorrow. What are the chances of having an ignition and fuel problem at the same time and have no error codes.

Jack
 
This is why I absolutely hate the newer generation computer controlled cars and trucks.

Screenshot_20260404-164413_Gallery.jpg


One 12 volt wire to run the complete engine and everything is good to go.

Screenshot_20251117-181944_Gallery.jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
Dod u check fuel pressure. U can have dpressure but not enough. I think the ground wire from the pump bolts to the top of the frame. I can lose continuity. Needs a good cleaning. Frame, wire and bolt. Kim
 

Well, I am about at my wits end. I am able to get the truck to run while spraying Quick Start into the throttle body. So I have to think that there is nothing wrong with the ignition. I replaced the fuel pump yesterday and I can hear it run and there is fuel under pressure getting to the injectors. I have to assume that the injectors are not firing which probably means an electrical problem somewhere, very doubtful all the injectors would go bad at the same time. I checked the fuses and the ASD relay and they check as good. I am now getting a U1424 error code. I think it is getting that because the engine won't start in the proper amount of time for the tranny.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
I checked the fuses and the ASD relay and they check as good.
Click to expand...

Did you check for power at the injectors?

On the earlier cars, there is a single wire for power and a break in that would kill all the injectors. I think it would kill the coils, too, so not saying it is your problem. But might be worth checking. Just an idea.
 
DionR said:
Did you check for power at the injectors?

On the earlier cars, there is a single wire for power and a break in that would kill all the injectors. I think it would kill the coils, too, so not saying it is your problem. But might be worth checking. Just an idea.
Click to expand...
I am leaning towards one problem being the culprit. Whether it be a broken wire or something else seeing as all the injectors stopped working at the same time.

Jack
 
I have had success. As I thought it was down to a broken wire. The very first wire I checked in the main harness didn't show any continuity. This truck was in an accident when I bought it 6 years ago and I had to replace most of the front end on it. So, with that in mind I started checking the main engine harness and there was a spot that got pinched to some extent so I opened it up there. I cut the wire in question and checked it back to the PCM end and there was continuity. I noticed that the wire was a little on the dark side as if some moisture had got into it. I pulled on the wire in the other direction and sure enough I pulled out about 3/4 of an inch of copper that had rotted on the other end. I cut a piece out of the wire and put a temporary splice in and voila, the truck started right away. After doing my "Happy Dance" I put a proper splice in and I am good to go. What a pain in the *** this has been. The only thing I can figure is something went wrong somewhere and shorted out the PCM and fuel pump and possibly the crank and cam sensors as well as doing in the wire that was just barely hanging on in the first place. I went from no spark or fuel to getting spark and no fuel to getting fuel to the injectors and then finding the broken wire. I have learned to hate new technology especially when it spit out no codes. At least I got it going again.

Jack
 
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