273 to 340 swap in 65 dart

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65ChargerDart

65ChargerDart

65ChargerDart
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I'm getting close to tearing down my 340 with X heads and LD340 intake with 600cfm Edelbrock carb and Dougs headers. I have the conversion engine mounts, driveshaft, & 833 to hook it up to 8-3/4 already installed. I've seen threads covering these conversions but can't locate them now (naturaly). My biggest concern is remembering somethig about using a Summit ? (Mopar Performance) ? aluminum water pump. I'm also going to need a mini starter. Cheapest place to purchase these?
Any sage wisdom from "been there, done that" or a link to a site or thread that covers the conversion?

TIA

Jim
 
The only thing I can think of concerning the water pump is that the 273 water pump has it's inlet on the driver's side of the engine & the 340 might have it on the passenger's side. If you just use the 273 water pump you'll becovering up the timing marks on the timing chain cover. You'll need both the pump & cover from a 273. All of this applies only if the pumps have their inlets on opposite sides. I've seen the mini starters on eBay for about $50 plus shipping. I'm pretty sure it's about the same as a later model starter from something like a Durango, but couldn't tell you what year. I'm sure that other people will ring in here with things I've forgotten.
 
I sent you a pm Jim before I read this.

You can find a mini starter in the junkyard for $25 off a 1990s dakota pick-up. I found one on an old van. It was practically new with the stickers still on it.

I wanted to use the same style water pump and brackets from my 273 and this is what I did. Milodon makes an original cast high flow/performance water pump that fits my 340 (bought it from Summit MIL-16251). The outlet is on the driver's side. The MP one is on the passenger side. You would have to change radiators and brackets if you use the MP one. The timing marks are blocked significantly but I think you may just barely be able to get a light on it. So, what I did was bolt on the 273 timing tab and found TDC and made new marks on the balancer. Problem solved as far as I can tell so far. I'll be firing up the motor soon.
 
if you use a water pump with the bottom out let on the drivers side,,you need to use a pre70 or maybe pre 69 timing chain cover from a 273/318/340,all the early ones are use that water pump timing chain cover combination,,,
 
I bought the Milodon MIL-16251 aluminum pump from Summit. So I can just use my 273 w/p cover, re-mark the 340 damper for TDC and am good to go?
Again, my goal is a stealth 340 that appears to be a 273 HiPo to all but the very observant viewer.
 
65ChargerDart said:
I bought the Milodon MIL-16251 aluminum pump from Summit. So I can just use my 273 w/p cover, re-mark the 340 damper for TDC and am good to go?
Again, my goal is a stealth 340 that appears to be a 273 HiPo to all but the very observant viewer.
Click to expand...

Damn it I did not realize they made the aluminum one in the same style.

Jim, when I re-marked the dampener I used a grinding wheel to make a little tick mark so I can see the mark under the timing light and tell the difference from the 340 timing cover mark. Maybe this helps.
 
One other thing is what bell housing do you intend to use? If you use the one from the 340, you will need a flywheel and clutch and presure plate from it. If you use the one from the original car, it might have trouble handling the power from the 340. The 340 or newer style bell housing uses a 10.5 in clutch and is a very tight fit in an early A. The fire wall to floor lip will have to be foldfed back to clear the larger bell housing on your car.
Other than that you have most issues covered.
 
I purchased a "kit" from Brewers that included (among other things) a resized Z bar and special throw-out arm that should deal with some of the issues of fitting a 340 bellhousing into my narrow A body. They didn't mention any clearance issues when I discussed my plan with them, but I'm sure there will be several unexpected clearance issues before it's all over. I'll be cutting out my hump anyway to install the fiberglass hump for the 4 speed.
I think I'm going with a gear vendors overdrive rather than the Keisler 5 speed. I've built several Triumph TR6s over the years and am very comfortable with Laycock de Normanville electricly activated overdrive they use. As a matter of fact I like the idea of using a TR6 column mounted switch to activate the o/d and using a chrome plated stalk mounted brhind the turn signal stalk like the TR6 uses. Volvos and some Triumphs and MGs used a switch on the shifter but that wouldn'y look right on a Hurst shifter to me. Anybody gone that rout with an early A body?

Jim
 
i have a ansen scatter shield in my early A,, i did not have any floor lip clearance issues,,
the gear venders is .77 reduction,,, i believe,, the tremec comes in 2 different over drives,, .64 and .68 i believe,, i am also looking in to all the pros and cons of either conversion,,
 
I didn't have any problems with fitting the 10.5" 340 bellhousing & clutch assembly in my '64. Cleared everywhere. Just had to rework the Z bar, the engine mounted pivot ball, & use a longer adjusting rod from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Your Brewer's parts should have that covered.
 
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