408 roller rockers noisy?

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dans4door1970

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I've never had roller rockers and lifters before. They seem to be a bit noisy compared to stock, is that normal? Also are there any adjustments with them or do they self adjust. I can hear a bit of ticking once in a while and when I shut it off the final rotation I can hear a bit of noise in them. Other than that the motor runs great.
Thanks
 
Not enough information. Solid or hydraulic? Rocker arms? Hot rod or daily driver?
 
Ok the hydraulics will require a small amount of pre load like any other hydraulic. I personally have never ran them, I'm sure someone who has can chime in and tell you how much.
 
I am running hydraulic rollers in my Magnum based 408" stroker w aluminum heads and small block Chevy roller rockers with locking style adjusters. I run two full turns of preload from zero lash on them, as per Hughes instructions. They are quiet, and I have only checked them once after break in to ensure that they are still locked down.
 
I am running hydraulic rollers in my Magnum based 408" stroker w aluminum heads and small block Chevy roller rockers with locking style adjusters. I run two full turns of preload from zero lash on them, as per Hughes instructions. They are quiet, and I have only checked them once after break in to ensure that they are still locked down.


2 turns???? WTF???? I run 1/2 turn on street junk and for a racing hydraulic (that there is an oxymoron...racing hydraulic) i use 1/8 turn. if i want to wind the snot out of it I set them at zero.


2 turns is dumb. no need to run the plunger down that low.
 
2 turns???? WTF???? I run 1/2 turn on street junk and for a racing hydraulic (that there is an oxymoron...racing hydraulic) i use 1/8 turn. if i want to wind the snot out of it I set them at zero.


2 turns is dumb. no need to run the plunger down that low.
So, with zero valve lash I go another 1/2 turn, correct?
 
Yes turns begin from zero lash when the cam is on the base circle for that valve.
 
2 turns???? WTF???? I run 1/2 turn on street junk and for a racing hydraulic (that there is an oxymoron...racing hydraulic) i use 1/8 turn. if i want to wind the snot out of it I set them at zero.


2 turns is dumb. no need to run the plunger down that low.

That's bold talk for a one-eyed fat man!
 
2 turns???? WTF???? I run 1/2 turn on street junk and for a racing hydraulic (that there is an oxymoron...racing hydraulic) i use 1/8 turn. if i want to wind the snot out of it I set them at zero.


2 turns is dumb. no need to run the plunger down that low.
Some roller lifters actually specify that much preload and may be noisy if you don't run that much preload. All depends on the lifter design
 
To the OP, some cheaper roller rockers can be noisy as they may have some side slop. The rockers themself do not self adjust. The lifter does that if the preload was set up correctly and without an adjustable rocker arm the way you do it is to measure preload with an adjustable pushrod then measure it and order pushrods of that length. A lot of guys just slap in stock length pushrods, or something that's specified by the rocker arm manufacturer and think everything is hunky dory when it may not be due to head or block height tolerance or using different thickness head gaskets. When you do that you have no idea how much preload the lifter really has. If it's too little the rockers can be noisy. If it's too much the lifters may pump up and hold the valves open and you lose power in the upper rpm range
 
Some roller lifters actually specify that much preload and may be noisy if you don't run that much preload. All depends on the lifter design
I see this an awful lot. Has anyone stopped to think what a hydraulic lifter really does? Think about it. It automatically compensates for lash with an oil fed plunger. That's it! It will not hold the valves open if you have too much preload, and they do not pump up from high rpm and oil pressure. The anti pump up lifter is a misnomer. When the engine gets into valve float, there is clearance, aka lash, between the valvetrain components. The lifter does it's job, and closes that lash. Now when the valve tries to close, the lifter is pumped up and won't allow it to seat. Enter the anti pump up lifter. They add a heavy duty retainer, and instruct the engine builder to only run .002" preload. That way when the valves float, the lifters won't fly apart, and the valve will seat enough to not drastically lose power.
I have run hydraulic lifters with the plunger depressed to within .015" of bottoming out, and made lots of power. The valvetrain geometry better be right, and it better have adequate spring to control the valve for the intended rpm. For what it's worth, I run my street builds at 3/4 to 1 full turn on every hydraulic lifter type, including anti pump up. They run quieter, and because I make sure the geometry is right, they don't pump up. The motor really doesn't care where the plunger is riding inside the lifter. It only cares if the valve opens and closes properly.
 
I see this an awful lot. Has anyone stopped to think what a hydraulic lifter really does? Think about it. It automatically compensates for lash with an oil fed plunger. That's it! It will not hold the valves open if you have too much preload, and they do not pump up from high rpm and oil pressure. The anti pump up lifter is a misnomer. When the engine gets into valve float, there is clearance, aka lash, between the valvetrain components. The lifter does it's job, and closes that lash. Now when the valve tries to close, the lifter is pumped up and won't allow it to seat. Enter the anti pump up lifter. They add a heavy duty retainer, and instruct the engine builder to only run .002" preload. That way when the valves float, the lifters won't fly apart, and the valve will seat enough to not drastically lose power.
I have run hydraulic lifters with the plunger depressed to within .015" of bottoming out, and made lots of power. The valvetrain geometry better be right, and it better have adequate spring to control the valve for the intended rpm. For what it's worth, I run my street builds at 3/4 to 1 full turn on every hydraulic lifter type, including anti pump up. They run quieter, and because I make sure the geometry is right, they don't pump up. The motor really doesn't care where the plunger is riding inside the lifter. It only cares if the valve opens and closes properly.
Thanks. I would expect that means to start at zero lash and then 3/4 more. correct?
 
Thanks. I would expect that means to start at zero lash and then 3/4 more. correct?
Correct, but first, what rockers are you running? I have a feeling the geometry is probably not too great.
Sorry, I just realized you already posted about that. They are likely either Mopar Performance, or ProForm if they are blue. Can you upload a pic?
 
Correct, but first, what rockers are you running? I have a feeling the geometry is probably not too great.
I bought the motor from Sharadon in Minnesota. It was an Ebay sale. They are blue but know little else. I could look on them if you think there is a number or brand and let you know. The motor has 300 miles and I would feel better to check them for future miles
 
I bought the motor from Sharadon in Minnesota. It was an Ebay sale. They are blue but know little else. I could look on them if you think there is a number or brand and let you know. The motor has 300 miles and I would feel better to check them for future miles
There probably won't be, but it's worth a look. Try to get a close up pic also.
 

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