6-pack questions

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Cuda416

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Alright, I left the title a little open in hopes of getting several things answered and others as I learn new questions...

I recently got a hold of what appears to be a factory (or at least over the counter) small block 6-pack intake. Has Chrysler, the part number and Edelbrock cast into it. Intake itself looks like it's in decent shape though I've not removed the carbs yet so threads are still in question.

starting questions are....

1. The center carb bowl is clearly not correct. Was there some reason in the past in which swapping them was "the thing to do"?
2. These are 440 carbs, was/is there a good reason other than it's what someone had on hand to run these vs the 340 carbs?
3. The choke pod on the center carb. Stupid dumb question, what it's interaction with the bimetal choke mounted in the manifold operation?
4. The outboard carbs are both list #4365, which I know is wrong since the front should be 4175, question is, how does that affect operation?
5. 4365 list carbs are N95, which I "believe" is California emissions related. What's different about them from non N95 carbs?

That's it for now. Thanks in advance!


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1 many reasons to change bowl. Stripped threads on needle valve, fuel inlet or accel pump diaphragm. Leaking vent valve on top, not unusual to see that generic bowl on there. Should work fine.


3 the bimetallic choke in manifold sets the choke. The diaphragm on the carb is a choke pull off. When engine starts the manifold vacuum opens the choke so it can run. You need both for choke to work as stock.

4 the front and rear are jetted different on factory carbs.
 
1 many reasons to change bowl. Stripped threads on needle valve, fuel inlet or accel pump diaphragm. Leaking vent valve on top, not unusual to see that generic bowl on there. Should work fine.


3 the bimetallic choke in manifold sets the choke. The diaphragm on the carb is a choke pull off. When engine starts the manifold vacuum opens the choke so it can run. You need both for choke to work as stock.

4 the front and rear are jetted different on factory carbs.

That all makes sense, thanks very much.

Sounds then the different part number on the outboard carbs would really just tell you what metering plate was inside since they don't have jets like the center carb? So if I wanted to use the same carbs like this I just need to put the correct plate in place?
 

Yes, basically, no difference between a 340/440 carb except for the jetting and metering plates. If you want a reliable way for jetting and idle air adjustment, you may want to look into Promax. Also, know what your fuel pressure is, 5/5.5. Google how to tune a Sixpack. The correct center carb vented float bowl is a difficult find, yours should be fine.
 
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