65 barracuda suspension lower control arm gap on top

[GHOST RUSTERS]

Hey guys, crawling under the 65 barracuda for the first time today I saw this… the passenger side lower control arm has a noticeable gap at the top… compared to the drivers side… what may have caused this and should I be concerned? I’m preparing to get into replacing all of the front end rubber and bushings soon (gonna soak everything in PB blaster first while waiting for parts) any advice or help is greatly appreciated. (Also any recommendations on a decent affordable suspension kit? I see the PST kit mentioned often but apparently it doesn’t include a pitman arm?) thanks FABO!

 

[72bluNblu]

This is not uncommon at all, and they may have been that way the whole time- as in, from the factory. While the arm is loaded with the torsion bars it's unlikely that the LCA moves around all that much on the hex socket, although it could contribute to flex under hard braking or cornering events. That motion would be further limited by the strut rods, although with the large factory bushings those can move around quite a bit.

@Jim Lusk covers this well in his lower control arm videos


I clamp the end with the pivot lever together before I weld the boxing plate on the bottom, and then in addition to the boxing plate I add a strap to that end. You want to limit the play, but don’t make it so tight that there’s resistance between the pivot lever and the LCA.

 

[GHOST RUSTERS]

Wow! Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I’m without a welder and not as skilled as your demonstration shows even if I had one… although I have access to a welder elsewhere, does Jim supply those backing plates or are you just using mild steel cut as needed? having said that, is it safe to go ahead and get started in replacing rubbers and suspension pieces as needed or will that gap hinder and or address anything moving forward? (No pun intended) thanks again I appreciate your time!

 

[junkyardhero]

that there is your problem.

so like @72bluNblu mentioned you'll need to either repair it (press & welder) or source another.

is it safe to go ahead and get started in replacing rubbers and suspension pieces as needed or will that gap hinder and or address anything moving forward

now is the time to think about if you want disc brakes or not, because a lot of the wear items on the front are specific between drums and discs. and the upgrade stuff is all entirely different (with the exception of the lower control arm bushings)

i would 1000% do the moog upper control arm "problem solver" offset bushings no matter which direction you take. PN K7103. yes, they're expensive.

 

[72bluNblu]

Wow! Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I’m without a welder and not as skilled as your demonstration shows even if I had one… although I have access to a welder elsewhere, does Jim supply those backing plates or are you just using mild steel cut as needed? having said that, is it safe to go ahead and get started in replacing rubbers and suspension pieces as needed or will that gap hinder and or address anything moving forward? (No pun intended) thanks again I appreciate your time!

You can order the reinforcing plates, @BergmanAutoCraft sells them here Lower Control Arm Reinforcement Plate/Pr - Bergman Auto Craft , I believe a few of the other vendors have them as well. But you can also just make them yourself with some mild steel, some folks just use a few flat stock "straps" to tie the LCA halves together in a few places. Similar to the ones I made for the end.

Now that @junkyardhero pointed out that the LCA halve has completely separated from the torsion bar socket and adjusting lever I might look for another LCA to replace that one, but it's hard to tell with it on the car. You may be able to just press that back together and hold it in place with the reinforcing plate/straps

View attachment 1716291075

that there is your problem.

so like @72bluNblu mentioned you'll need to either repair it (press & welder) or source another.



now is the time to think about if you want disc brakes or not, because a lot of the wear items on the front are specific between drums and discs. and the upgrade stuff is all entirely different (with the exception of the lower control arm bushings)

i would 1000% do the moog upper control arm "problem solver" offset bushings no matter which direction you take. PN K7103. yes, they're expensive.

Good catch!!!

I didn't even see that the LCA was fully separated from the socket.

 

[GHOST RUSTERS]

View attachment 1716291075

that there is your problem.

so like @72bluNblu mentioned you'll need to either repair it (press & welder) or source another.



now is the time to think about if you want disc brakes or not, because a lot of the wear items on the front are specific between drums and discs. and the upgrade stuff is all entirely different (with the exception of the lower control arm bushings)

i would 1000% do the moog upper control arm "problem solver" offset bushings no matter which direction you take. PN K7103. yes, they're expensive.

Thanks for the breakdown, that makes me feel a little better in taking this on… it’s just nuts and bolts but SAFETY is my ultimate goal… I see that the disc conversation kits are quite pricey anywhere from $600 to $1100… not hiding anything but that’s a little out of my range right now… unless there is any other way to go about a disc setup and a dual master cylinder… otherwise it looks like I’m planning to remove the lower control arm, clean everything up and see about clamping and welding them as instructed by 72bluNblu. I’ll certainly order the Moog. Any other suggestions or anything I might be missing? I just got done soaking everything that I could see related with PB… in the meantime I’m still doing homework on the right suspension kit. Thanks!

 

[GHOST RUSTERS]

You can order the reinforcing plates, @BergmanAutoCraft sells them here Lower Control Arm Reinforcement Plate/Pr - Bergman Auto Craft , I believe a few of the other vendors have them as well. But you can also just make them yourself with some mild steel, some folks just use a few flat stock "straps" to tie the LCA halves together in a few places. Similar to the ones I made for the end.

Now that @junkyardhero pointed out that the LCA halve has completely separated from the torsion bar socket and adjusting lever I might look for another LCA to replace that one, but it's hard to tell with it on the car. You may be able to just press that back together and hold it in place with the reinforcing plate/straps



Good catch!!!

I didn't even see that the LCA was fully separated from the socket.

Thank you for the link! I have no shame admitting that this a budget build but I will not skimp on safety being that my family will be in this vehicle once operational. Having dmsaid that, may I ask your opinion at this point of my build in looking into a disc conversion (pricey for me at $600 to $1100) vs either reinforcing my current setup and or replacing the one questionable LCA? Thanks!

 

[junkyardhero]

Good catch!!!

I didn't even see that the LCA was fully separated from the socket.

three sets of eyes, we always peepin'

 

[junkyardhero]

Thank you for the link! I have no shame admitting that this a budget build but I will not skimp on safety being that my family will be in this vehicle once operational. Having dmsaid that, may I ask your opinion at this point of my build in looking into a disc conversion (pricey for me at $600 to $1100) vs either reinforcing my current setup and or replacing the one questionable LCA? Thanks!

there's no easy way to slice a brake swap. to stay small bolt patter and keep your existing wheels and tires is gonna run you that 600~1K

to swap to big bolt, the initial is cheaper (lots of used parts, cheap components) but then you need to consider upgrading the rear axle to match, so that's where the dollars come in.

you don't have the budget now, so just rebuild it stock and then think about it down the line. yeah, it's like you're spending that money twice but short term you get the car up and running now.

because you're not running a swaybar, the LCA doesn't have any bearing on where you're going. they're all interchangeable from 62~76 so just worry about either repairing that one or if that's not a tenable situation replace it.

 

[GHOST RUSTERS]

there's no easy way to slice a brake swap. to stay small bolt patter and keep your existing wheels and tires is gonna run you that 600~1K

to swap to big bolt, the initial is cheaper (lots of used parts, cheap components) but then you need to consider upgrading the rear axle to match, so that's where the dollars come in.

you don't have the budget now, so just rebuild it stock and then think about it down the line. yeah, it's like you're spending that money twice but short term you get the car up and running now.

because you're not running a swaybar, the LCA doesn't have any bearing on where you're going. they're all interchangeable from 62~76 so just worry about either repairing that one or if that's not a tenable situation replace it.

And just like that you solved the mystery! Thanks! I can get to a welder and I can handle the bracket job confidently so I’ll order those brackets and get all of those parts off, sandblasted and painted, and go with the moog for sure there. Any recommendations on the remaining suspension kit? PST is always mentioned but is minus the pitman arm.

 

[junkyardhero]

Any recommendations on the remaining suspension kit? PST is always mentioned but is minus the pitman arm.

i don't have any strong recommendations on a "kit" for a number of reasons. mainly because nobody offers a full kit for what i need or want, so i just wind up buying pieces that i know are good quality or i've used for ages and work well.

the one thing that i don't compromise on is the offset upper control arm bushing.

on everything else, because quality has gone to crap or is so spotty i try and stick with what i know.

if you're looking for a "full kit" try contacting peter at Bergman autocraft, he can set you up. @BergmanAutoCraft

here's the website:

Home - Bergman Auto Craft - Home of Quality Muscle Car Parts

Bergman Auto Craft is dedicated to the the design and manufacture of quality, modern components for classic, muscle-era vehicles

bergmanautocraft.com

 

[GHOST RUSTERS]

i don't have any strong recommendations on a "kit" for a number of reasons. mainly because nobody offers a full kit for what i need or want, so i just wind up buying pieces that i know are good quality or i've used for ages and work well.

the one thing that i don't compromise on is the offset upper control arm bushing.

on everything else, because quality has gone to crap or is so spotty i try and stick with what i know.

if you're looking for a "full kit" try contacting peter at Bergman autocraft, he can set you up. @BergmanAutoCraft

here's the website:

http://[URL]https://bergmanautocraft.com/

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You were dead on! I called and spoke to Peter this morning what’s a great guy! Patient and passionate about preserving! Thanks so much for the information and setting me up with him. He’s putting together as we speak! I’ll continue to presoak all the nuts and bolts in preparing to start taking things apart. Anything I should be weary or prepared for in taking the control arms or torsion bars apart? Thanks again!