Hi all,
I'm in the process of making the 2 style insulators (connectors) for what appears to be all 67-69 Chrysler cars.
MY QUESTION...
on the 68-69 insulator when the tabs are locked onto the switch and the insulator is pressed all the way on is there a gap between the lock tab and the lock on the insulator?
lock tab contacting switch tab
Lock tab not contacting the switch tab
The 2 types of insulators
67 (figures) is different from 68-69 (might also be the same for 65-66 as they use same ignition switch)
68-69 (has the addition of locking tabs)
Just a note about the switches...
OEM 67 did not have the ground terminal, OEM 68 seems to have had it and, 69 may not have.
67 no lock tabs on the switch body, 68 and aftermarket have locking tabs on the switch body
date codes? left to right 426 - 037 - aftermarket
Note the 67 lock is out of a November built 67 and the date code (assuming the 426 is WWY) would be oct 17-23 1966)
The "68" lock has unknown origins but was removed from a 67 that was a bit of a Frankenstein (68-69 door etc.) and reads Jan 16-22 1967
This photo shows a 69 without a ground terminal (Why do 68 & 69 dart iginition switches have different # ground plug ins?)
The Factory Parts book from 67-69 shows 67 is one part number, 68 is a different part number and 69 Is a 3rd different part number BUT the same switch was used over the Chrysler car lines each year (A,B,C etc. all used the same switch for a particular year)
In my research I have not come across a wiring diagram that uses the Ground terminal but the 68 up insulator has a provision for it.
ALSO note: the 68 Plymouth FSM wiring diagram for Valiant only shows the ACC and the IGN2 pin out reversed (I believe it is a misprint) the same switch is used on all car lines that year and if the car was wired that way the ignition ballast by-pass would be hot if the key was turned to ACC position and none of the accessories would work. When the key was in the start position the accessories would work and the ballast bypass would not get any power.
Not to mention all other wiring diagrams in that FSM show the key wired correctly.
I'm in the process of making the 2 style insulators (connectors) for what appears to be all 67-69 Chrysler cars.
MY QUESTION...
on the 68-69 insulator when the tabs are locked onto the switch and the insulator is pressed all the way on is there a gap between the lock tab and the lock on the insulator?
lock tab contacting switch tab
Lock tab not contacting the switch tab
The 2 types of insulators
67 (figures) is different from 68-69 (might also be the same for 65-66 as they use same ignition switch)
68-69 (has the addition of locking tabs)
Just a note about the switches...
OEM 67 did not have the ground terminal, OEM 68 seems to have had it and, 69 may not have.
67 no lock tabs on the switch body, 68 and aftermarket have locking tabs on the switch body
date codes? left to right 426 - 037 - aftermarket
Note the 67 lock is out of a November built 67 and the date code (assuming the 426 is WWY) would be oct 17-23 1966)
The "68" lock has unknown origins but was removed from a 67 that was a bit of a Frankenstein (68-69 door etc.) and reads Jan 16-22 1967
This photo shows a 69 without a ground terminal (Why do 68 & 69 dart iginition switches have different # ground plug ins?)
The Factory Parts book from 67-69 shows 67 is one part number, 68 is a different part number and 69 Is a 3rd different part number BUT the same switch was used over the Chrysler car lines each year (A,B,C etc. all used the same switch for a particular year)
In my research I have not come across a wiring diagram that uses the Ground terminal but the 68 up insulator has a provision for it.
ALSO note: the 68 Plymouth FSM wiring diagram for Valiant only shows the ACC and the IGN2 pin out reversed (I believe it is a misprint) the same switch is used on all car lines that year and if the car was wired that way the ignition ballast by-pass would be hot if the key was turned to ACC position and none of the accessories would work. When the key was in the start position the accessories would work and the ballast bypass would not get any power.
Not to mention all other wiring diagrams in that FSM show the key wired correctly.
