73 duster weather stripping

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dazedduster

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Fort Bragg, Ca
looking for a good sorce for all the weatherstripping, window gaskets. ect
for me 73 duster.

has anybody tried Dantes
 
How well did their seals work around the door windows, especially in the corners where the top of the seal turns 90 degrees and travels down along the quarter windows? I bought some a few years ago (can't remember where or the manufacturer) and they were molded goofy in that corner and would not seal off against the glass. Took them off and re-used the old seals.

Jerry
 
We got some nice stuff for my buddies Demon from Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc 824-467-9842 or 814-467-9282 www.restorationspecialties.com

I got all of the rubber stuff for my 64 Barracuda and 64 Valiant Convertible too. Their belt weatherstripping is top notch. Good guys to deal with too.
 
stay away from the door roof rail seals from laysons, they say they fit 70 to 76 duster/demon but they have the groove in the middle and I'm having to get new ones. 70-72 are different from the ones on the 73-76.. I had to do the same thing as Jerry.
 
I have a 9 piece '73-'74 Duster weatherstriping kit in my Ebay store, item # 120169239515. This kit is in stock and ready to ship.
 
Player1up, that's the problem I encountered with the seal for my son's '74 Dart Sport - it had a groove running the full length as you describe (why, I'm not sure, the original one does not have it), but the top 90 degree corner is molded wacky, preventing it from gluing up tight into the stainless roof rail. To me, it resembles a mitered picture frame corner that is not lined up properly when nailed together. The two 45 degree angled pieces don't mate up flush.

Does this make sense to you, Rick? I'll try to post a picture to show what I mean.

Jerry
 

Player1up, that's the problem I encountered with the seal for my son's '74 Dart Sport - it had a groove running the full length as you describe (why, I'm not sure, the original one does not have it), but the top 90 degree corner is molded wacky, preventing it from gluing up tight into the stainless roof rail. To me, it resembles a mitered picture frame corner that is not lined up properly when nailed together. The two 45 degree angled pieces don't mate up flush.

Does this make sense to you, Rick? I'll try to post a picture to show what I mean.

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Yes, it does make sense. When I put new roofrail seals on my 74 Duster last fall, I had to use the same type of seal that you're refering to. But my seal fit pretty darned good, and it was the "mitered" type of seal too. Maybe you got a seal from a bad run???? However, I will say that I used a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive in the "mitered" corner to keep it where it was supposed to be. I also noticed that when I removed the old seal, there was absolutely no adhesive used from the factory anywhere on the old seal.

As far as the groove goes, it's probably because of the seals' multi-year application. The manufacturer probably didn't want to invest in another set of tooling for a different version of the same part just because it went on a different year car. I've seen this many times over the years.

Rick
 
Thanks for the reply, Rick. Who is the manufacturer of your window seals? Do they have the groove we have discussed?

Here is the one I had trouble with. Notice how bulky the seal is in the corner. See the lumps where it looks like the corner is a separate piece of the molding and transitions into the horizontal and vertical straight runs?

Not a good seal, at all.

Jerry

Window Seal.JPG
 
Jerry, Mine are the same way. they seal ok at the vertical pillar but the top edge they don't touch the glass all of the way around. At about 40MPH it sounds like the window is down and the glass will not adjust any further up. I must have spent 2hrs trying to adjust the glass before I got fed up with it.
my old seals had a square back on them that fit completely into the channel and the new ones are angled on the back with grooves. Also the old ones weren't held in with glue on my car, and the new ones wont stay in place without glue. I'm reluctant to glue them in because wont they get destroyed if they need to be taken out?

Rick, you are right about the repro companies taking the quick way out on some "slight" differences, I see that even on parts you can buy at the parts store.

I wonder if it is due to the door diffs from 70-2 to 73-6. I have 72 door laying around I'll have to go do some measuring.
 
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