7875 + 5.9 + E85 + Megasquirt

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What have you done to keep the 8 3/4 alive behind your motor? Is it just back braced? I’m trying to decide if I need to trade up for a Dana 60.
 
turbovan said:
What have you done to keep the 8 3/4 alive behind your motor? Is it just back braced? I’m trying to decide if I need to trade up for a Dana 60.
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Yes just back braced and 1350 yolk. It’s a factory original 3.23 suregrip afaik.
 
Props to PTC converters. They completely rebuilt my converter and had it on my door step in a week. They called me the day it arrived at their shop and we discussed my combo and they built it around that.
It’s all brand new, only the cover was re-used. Spragless and good for 1000hp according to PTC. I’m happy with the 9.5” Circle-D I got from my buddy so might sell this one or hold on to it as a spare. Anyway, I would not hesitate to use PTC again. Amazing service.

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Is this their pricier steel stator converter? I’ve heard and seen some very good results with those!
 
I hope you get to try it out so I can see your results without having to buy my own first! lol

They’re supposed to couple really well. I think you’d see a mph gain even in the 8th
 
turbovan said:
I hope you get to try it out so I can see your results without having to buy my own first! lol

They’re supposed to couple really well. I think you’d see a mph gain even in the 8th
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Buy this one from me! I’m just not in the mood to drop the trans and swap out the converter anytime soon. :)
 
I was tempted to ask, but I’m also not in a hurry to pull my trans or motor any time soon.
 
Toluene56 said:
You're going with a circle D converter? I contacted them Last year and they said they won't do any mopar converters. Hmm.
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It’s one a buddy of mine had made several years ago by Circle-D, used briefly in his turbo Dakota and has been sitting on a shelf since.
 
Rainy day project. Thinking about retrofitting the factory dash with custom gauges, pulling data off the Megasquirt CANBUS. This is my proof of concept using a small embedded board with CAN transceiver and a programmable HMI display.
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subcom said:
Rainy day project. Thinking about retrofitting the factory dash with custom gauges, pulling data off the Megasquirt CANBUS. This is my proof of concept using a small embedded board with CAN transceiver and a programmable HMI display.
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That's awesome. What are you using for the HMI?
 
I didn’t think I should bump your old thread, but I was looking through it and I believe I’m running the same rear brakes as you. Did you keep the disc/drum master cylinder? Any trouble bleeding the rears?
 
turbovan said:
I didn’t think I should bump your old thread, but I was looking through it and I believe I’m running the same rear brakes as you. Did you keep the disc/drum master cylinder? Any trouble bleeding the rears?
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I have the alum dual master cylinder with the larger bore. I think I bought it for a Dakota truck application but it’s the common one everyone uses. I don’t recall that bleeding those brakes was any trouble. I also have a proportioning valve for the rears.
 
subcom said:
I have the alum dual master cylinder with the larger bore. I think I bought it for a Dakota truck application but it’s the common one everyone uses. I don’t recall that bleeding those brakes was any trouble. I also have a proportioning valve for the rears.
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Thank you, I’ll give that one a try. The instructions that came with the brakes say they need to be bled off the car, but the orientation puts the bleeder right at the top where it should be so I didn’t understand why. I’ve bled my system 10 times and the pedal still feels spongy until I pump them a bit. Also running a proportioning valve.
 
turbovan said:
Thank you, I’ll give that one a try. The instructions that came with the brakes say they need to be bled off the car, but the orientation puts the bleeder right at the top where it should be so I didn’t understand why. I’ve bled my system 10 times and the pedal still feels spongy until I pump them a bit. Also running a proportioning valve.
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My pedal was really spongy with this setup until I put the bigger discs on the front. Probably too big of a bore on the MC with the smaller discs I had on it previously.
 
I have KH discs up front. The braking power seems okay, but 2x the travel since swapping to disc in the rear. The fact that the pedal firms up so much when pumping makes me think there is still air in the system.
 
turbovan said:
I have KH discs up front. The braking power seems okay, but 2x the travel since swapping to disc in the rear. The fact that the pedal firms up so much when pumping makes me think there is still air in the system.
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Yeah I bled my system a bunch of times thinking it was air. But the fluid always seemed to be bubble free every time.
 
subcom said:
Yeah I bled my system a bunch of times thinking it was air. But the fluid always seemed to be bubble free every time.
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Same. Okay well I’m glad to hear you had similar results. I’ll see how the Dakota master works out. Thank you!
 
More digital dash progress. Made some alum mounts to fit in the stock dash locations and where my hardware will be mounted. Still aways to go.

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