8&3/4 axle fitment problems

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Rapid Robert

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A body 8&3/4 housing, not sure if it is OE or if Moser shortened it. Dr diff A body BBP axles. 5:57 non sure grip with welded spiders (for the stock car). the axles will not insert all the way into the housing. on the drivers side the bearing/race will barely go in & on the pass side the axle/bearing/race is slightly off center & take some pressure to move it slightly to cantered & isn't close to even getting started in, something ain't right. I have no seal in the driver side, I took it out as I thought that might be the problem. iirc I had this pumpkin in another housing with no axle issues. I inserted the dr diff axles in another bare housing & they went in smooth a silk. thank you for your time. RR
 
A body 8&3/4 housing, not sure if it is OE or if Moser shortened it. Dr diff A body BBP axles. 5:57 non sure grip with welded spiders (for the stock car). the axles will not insert all the way into the housing. on the drivers side the bearing/race will barely go in & on the pass side the axle/bearing/race is slightly off center & take some pressure to move it slightly to cantered & isn't close to even getting started in, something ain't right. I have no seal in the driver side, I took it out as I thought that might be the problem. iirc I had this pumpkin in another housing with no axle issues. I inserted the dr diff axles in another bare housing & they went in smooth a silk. thank you for your time. RR
First, confirm that your housing is the correct A body width.
An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list
If that is correct, then start wiggling/twisting the axles to see if you can get them started.
If that's a no-go, and they fit into another A body housing and center section without any issues, there's only 2 things left.
1.) Your housing is bent.
2.) Your spiders weren't welded up straight and centered.
To check #1, take it to a rear end shop and have them throw it on a jig to see if it's square. If it's not too far out of whack, they can usually straighten them. If the housing was narrowed, they can check that the housing ends were welded on properly.
If #2, you'll have to start over with a different carrier and spiders- this time weld them up with an old set of axles in there to hold the gears in place as you tack them up.
Since you had the center section in another housing and the axles fit fine, I'm leaning towards #1, the housing is tweaked.
 
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The equalizer block for axle adjustment in the carrier should have been removed for the Dr Diff axles. You'll need to take the spider gear shaft out remove the equalizer and reinstall the shaft without it.
 

Professor I inserted the axles in a bare C body housing & they went in easily & the housing length is correct so yes it looks like it is time to pull the pumpkin. I wish I hadn't filled it! EDIT OMM I just saw your post, I will check that. also the SBP axles would not insert either
 
the housing measures 52 & 5/8 end to end. the BBP dr diff axles are 28" from a tape hooked on the round wheel stud flange out to the splined end. with the axles inserted (no b plate flanges installed & no pumpkin) the splined ends in the center are only a hair apart from each other. WTF. any thoughts? thank you for your time. RR
 
the housing measures 52 & 5/8 end to end. the BBP dr diff axles are 28" from a tape hooked on the round wheel stud flange out to the splined end. with the axles inserted (no b plate flanges installed & no pumpkin) the splined ends in the center are only a hair apart from each other. WTF. any thoughts? thank you for your time. RR
With the " pumkin" out of the housing try sliding the axles in and note how far they go in.
 
with them in all the way (no backing plates on) the splined ends are damn near touching each other. EDIT I believe dr diff said the b plates are 1/8 thick but that would still give only a bit over 1/4" clearance. I will get back over there soon & (re)measure everything with the b plates installed.
 
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