Adjustable strut rods and other parts

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gumper

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Butte, MT
Discovered the passenger side strut rod threads on my Duster are stripped out, so I need new ones. Was trying to decide between the QA1 and Firm Feel rods. I see Calvert has some, but they aren’t adjustable. Car is 99% on the drag strip.
Also replacing the LCA pins, bushings, tie rod sleeves and maybe torsion bars since I think the passenger side is bent. Was going to buy the Proforged brand pins, bushings and sleeves, and get 1.03 bars from an anywhere that has them in stock. I don’t want the super light duty small diameter bars.
 
I've shopped around a good bit and I plan on using the QA1s when I finally get around to it.
 
I have the QA1s loosely fitted on my 65 Dart’s loose K and suspension (everything woll be torqued to specs once installed
 
Discovered the passenger side strut rod threads on my Duster are stripped out, so I need new ones. Was trying to decide between the QA1 and Firm Feel rods. I see Calvert has some, but they aren’t adjustable. Car is 99% on the drag strip.
Also replacing the LCA pins, bushings, tie rod sleeves and maybe torsion bars since I think the passenger side is bent. Was going to buy the Proforged brand pins, bushings and sleeves, and get 1.03 bars from an anywhere that has them in stock. I don’t want the super light duty small diameter bars.
Curious why you want thick t-bars for a drag car? I know you have a pretty good setup, so actually want to know your line of thinking or maybe what new info there is out there that I haven’t seen (not trying to start an argument or pretend I know more).

Also, have you looked into delrin bushings (maybe you already are)? Again, with the drag car thing. Bergman has a setup with pins and such.

I have the QA1 rods, waiting to get the car back from body shop, so no experience other than they look nice.
 
I run QA1 adjustables on my bracket car. I've see through pictures how much difference they make when the front wheels touch down. I have much less front end shimmy by having them on the car.
 
Curious why you want thick t-bars for a drag car? I know you have a pretty good setup, so actually want to know your line of thinking or maybe what new info there is out there that I haven’t seen (not trying to start an argument or pretend I know more).

Also, have you looked into delrin bushings (maybe you already are)? Again, with the drag car thing. Bergman has a setup with pins and such.

I have the QA1 rods, waiting to get the car back from body shop, so no experience other than they look nice.
Not dead set on the torsion bars yet. I do plan to swap a G3 Hemi in within the next few years, and return to some street driving. I don’t want to go too light on the bars. If anything I’ll just replace with the factory size.

I was looking at the Bergman delrin, FF nylon and Proforged urethane pivot pin kits. I don’t know which one will make much realistic difference compared to the rubber that’s been in there.

Kind of going to depend who has them on hand and can get them to me quickly. Mid race season isn’t an opportune time to have this surprise project.
 
Not dead set on the torsion bars yet. I do plan to swap a G3 Hemi in within the next few years, and return to some street driving. I don’t want to go too light on the bars. If anything I’ll just replace with the factory size.

I was looking at the Bergman delrin, FF nylon and Proforged urethane pivot pin kits. I don’t know which one will make much realistic difference compared to the rubber that’s been in there.

Kind of going to depend who has them on hand and can get them to me quickly. Mid race season isn’t an opportune time to have this surprise project.


What makes you think you’ve bent a T bar??

I’m not sure how that could happen but I’m sure it could.
 
What makes you think you’ve bent a T bar??

I’m not sure how that could happen but I’m sure it could.
I still have to get it pulled completely out of the car to check. The LCA pin and strut rod was bent for sure, and just eyeballing the bar it looked a little bowed.
 
After spending the day beating the hell out of my control arms trying to get bushings and sleeves out I’m just going to break down and buy new QA1 arms. I tried welding a washer on the sleeve of the one LCA to push it out, and after two failed attempts (the washers came apart) I gave up. The washer trick on the other LCA worked flawlessly.
I can’t get the bushings on the UCA to budge, and one of those ball joints is in rough shape now anyhow.
 
Pean the edges of the bushing over all the way around. It'll collapse . Saves you hundreds of bucks. Nothing to lose.
 
Cook them with a torch…
I start to worry about how the heat will affect the integrity of the steel getting things too hot. Figured tig welding the washers on twice would have got them significantly hot enough.
 
I get the bushings right out with an air chisel. 5 minutes each max. If you need to leave the sleeve in, used a drill and drill holes all the way around the rubber and dig it right out, then either use a torch to buth the rest of the rubber out or a die grinder and gently grind the leftover rubber out. I've never understood how folks can make an easy job so difficult.
 
have a couple sets of the RMS strut rods. been very happy with them. if I were to do it again I would probably go Delrin on the lower arm bushings with greasable pins. haven't had a single issue with either set of poly bushings.
 
Finally got the sleeve out. Had to cut it in pieces with a die grinder. Went with the Bergman delrin bushings and pins. Also QA1 UCA, new eccentrics, QA1 strut rods and tie rod sleeves.
 
Finally got the sleeve out. Had to cut it in pieces with a die grinder. Went with the Bergman delrin bushings and pins. Also QA1 UCA, new eccentrics, QA1 strut rods and tie rod sleeves.

I used the QA-1 strut rods. I hurt the engine and it’s still not back together yet but it’s close to going back together soon and then it’s on the pump.

So I haven’t driven it yet but they fit and look good.
 
Does the torsion bar key look like it’s in the right position with the LCA fully relaxed? The adjuster bolt is just touching. The adjuster bolt seems to be sticking out quite a bit more than when I took things apart, but maybe I’m just paranoid I screwed something up.

IMG_2406.jpeg
 
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