Anyone successfully running 660 center squirters?

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Riff Raff

Riff Raff

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Have a set on my tunnel rammed stroker motor. They are rebuilt to stock specs. Besides the mods prescribed by Paul Blevins in the '73 Hot Rod mag article does anyone with "real world" experience have any tips or tricks? I know there are 100 other combos that'll probably work better or more efficiently but I'm doing it for nostalgias sake.

Thanks, Jeff
 
Riff Raff said:
Have a set on my tunnel rammed stroker motor. They are rebuilt to stock specs. Besides the mods prescribed by Paul Blevins in the '73 Hot Rod mag article does anyone with "real world" experience have any tips or tricks? I know there are 100 other combos that'll probably work better or more efficiently but I'm doing it for nostalgias sake.

Thanks, Jeff
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If you used the 850 base plate you've got one less thing to do.

The 4224 metering blocks leave a lot to be desired. If it were me, I'd spend the money and call BLP and order a set of metering blocks with their tune up in them. And, it's probably worth it to order two billet base plates. Just much nicer stuff than that Holley garbage.

You can also (and should) convert the main bodies over to changeable bleeds. If you do that, you can clean up the pig idle condition without using bailing wire and clean up the cruise with powervalves. To do that, you need to eliminate the almost 1:1 linkage and then you just puke raw fuel over the secondaries before they open.

Can you tell I'm not a fan of those carbs? By the time you fix all of the crap that's wrong with them, you could have bought a better set of carbs.
 
I just bought a set for my 6 71 build.

Mine have been converted to blocks, no power valves.

I'd like to throw em on my tunnel ram but I dont wanna rebuild my fuel lines untill the new engine is done.

I have high hopes for em!


Right now I run twin 4160, 450 CFM carbs at almost 1 to 1 on the secondarys.

20190517_204623_zpsvchn3p3t.jpg



They run like a stripped *** ape.

Sorry I cant help but I know the 660s can run hard!
 
I totally get what your saying yellow rose and I agree 100% . Like I said I'm doing for the sake of " it's what they USED to run". Cope I saw you posted awhile back that you had a pair of 660s and was hoping you tried them out so I could pick your brain.
brian6pac said:
Whats the problem ?
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Well no problems as of yet. I get the mechanics of how the carbs work. I get why running them on the street is going to be a handful. The only stories I've ever heard is they suck or they run like hell when you squash the loud pedal. I've only taken it on a two mile jog around the block and it's stupid responsive til the flat spot before the secondaries start sucking fuel. Then it goes like hell. I'm just leery of drilling and grinding on a set of real nice carbs unless necessary. Jeff
 
What's your stall and who built it.

The tunnel ram wants a high stall. It helps get past the flat spot in the carbs.

Some say it's a band aid and some say it is what it is. Stall her up about half way then let the pump shot do the rest.

I'm running a 3,800 stall from ultimate and it just works. Not a high stall but not factory.


What direction are your carbs? Inline or side hung?

Inline when you mash it, the fuel runs to the rear, raises the float and cuts fuel to the secondarys. Even side hung , folks recomend wedge floats so you dont cut fuel on acceleration.
 
Have you tried looking down the carbs while working the throttle.

The 660s should be into the secondarys almost instantly.

Any more that a slight touch and mine are opening. I wonder is someone has already mess with yours?

The 660s are like a on off switch. They are not designed for anything less.
 
Yeah. RAT KLR. That's cool. What are you gonna do with it?
 
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