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changeing yoke on 489 8 3/4
- Thread starter rt7413
- Start date
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BJS racing
Not all there!
You can just get a cross joint. That would be the easy way to do it.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
Like BJS said there is an adapter joint from 7260 to 7290, it is your best way to go.
Your 741 is most likely course spline while the 489 is probably fine spline. But even if the splines were the same you would have to change the crush sleeve on the 489. Plus to get the pinion bearing drag right the carrier needs to be removed from the housing so the pinion is spinning alone.
I am sure that there are plenty of people that will tell you that they have done it without removing the carrier with no proplems and this may be true but the correct way is to not have the carrier in the housing.
Here you go.
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/shaft/4.html
Chuck
Your 741 is most likely course spline while the 489 is probably fine spline. But even if the splines were the same you would have to change the crush sleeve on the 489. Plus to get the pinion bearing drag right the carrier needs to be removed from the housing so the pinion is spinning alone.
I am sure that there are plenty of people that will tell you that they have done it without removing the carrier with no proplems and this may be true but the correct way is to not have the carrier in the housing.
Here you go.
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/shaft/4.html
Chuck
66dartgt
Well-Known Member
The service manual tells you to measure the pinion bearing preload using an inch lb torque wrench before removing the old yoke, this would be without the drums on etc. Then reassemble with the new yoke and tighten the pinion nut until the same torque reading is achieved prior to disassembly. All this goes out the window if you change the seal in my opinion.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
66dartgt said:The service manual tells you to measure the pinion bearing preload using an inch lb torque wrench before removing the old yoke, this would be without the drums on etc. Then reassemble with the new yoke and tighten the pinion nut until the same torque reading is achieved prior to disassembly. All this goes out the window if you change the seal in my opinion.
I suppose that would get you close enough. Just grease or vasoline the new seal and it won't have enough drag to change the reading that much if any. Since alot of the third members and rear ends I set up get stored for a bit of time before they get used I pack the seals in the area of the inner seal lip and the outer dust lip with grease that way it won't be dry when it is first run in a car. I do this for the axle seals also.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
Yes, all stock 8 3/4 axles are 30 spline
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