cheapest way to convert to manual steering?

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mshred

mshred

The Green Manalishi
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hey guys,

id like to convert my power steering to manual steering without breaking the bank...I know i have a manual box somewhere in my garage although im not sure what year vehicle it came out of (do they all interchange? i have a 71 if that helps) and id like to use it with the least money and modification possible. I know that certain mid 70's-mid 80's vans used a coupler that adapter the same shaft to a manual box, but im wondering if theres any other ways to do it? id rather not spend the money on the mancini adapter that they sell since its kinda expensive at 125 dollars, and i dont really want to lengthen my shaft either. Anybody have any suggestions? also, are there any other parts i would need in the swap that i have forgotten here?

thanks!
Matthew
 
mshred said:
hey guys,

id like to convert my power steering to manual steering without breaking the bank...I know i have a manual box somewhere in my garage although im not sure what year vehicle it came out of (do they all interchange? i have a 71 if that helps) and id like to use it with the least money and modification possible. I know that certain mid 70's-mid 80's vans used a coupler that adapter the same shaft to a manual box, but im wondering if theres any other ways to do it? id rather not spend the money on the mancini adapter that they sell since its kinda expensive at 125 dollars, and i dont really want to lengthen my shaft either. Anybody have any suggestions? also, are there any other parts i would need in the swap that i have forgotten here?

thanks!
Matthew
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I think you pretty much covered your options, If you don't want to spring for the adapter, your other option is swap the column to a manual column. 66-76 box will work.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I think you pretty much covered your options, If you don't want to spring for the adapter, your other option is swap the column to a manual column. 66-76 box will work.
Click to expand...

yea your rite actually lol...thanks for the info on box interchangeability! hopefully the one i have will work, have to take a closer look. Does anybody have any more info or experience with the van swap? or a link to a cheaper adapter?
 
in my bracket car i cut the shaft in two and slipped a 6 in. pipe nipple over it and arc welded it up
 
If it was me,Firm Feel adapter and a new pitman arm. Could probably get the 2 for around $100.00,maybe a little more.Might as well get a new pitman arm while you have it apart.
 
daredevil said:
in my bracket car i cut the shaft in two and slipped a 6 in. pipe nipple over it and arc welded it up
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so it obviously isnt collapsable anynmore then right? id rather keep it collapsable since its a street car and thats a safety feature id like to have

what if i was to pull the shaft out to the correct length, would it still be able to collapse after that? would it even be safe to run it like that?
 
Johnny Dart said:
If it was me,Firm Feel adapter and a new pitman arm. Could probably get the 2 for around $100.00,maybe a little more.Might as well get a new pitman arm while you have it apart.
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point me to where i can find both for that price please.

and why would you say i should change the pitman arm? is their a benefit?
 
mshred said:
point me to where i can find both for that price please.

and why would you say i should change the pitman arm? is their a benefit?
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I got the adapter from a guy on this site for $75.00 shipped,and the pitman arm from rockauto for $75.00. Yes,I am a little over my original estimate,but still a cheap change.

You dont necessarily have to change the pitman arm.Depending on the condition of yours. It just makes sense to put in a new part if you have it all apart,especially if its 40yrs old.

I have seen the adapter come up on e-bay from time to time.
Different car sites,swap meets,etc....
 
Johnny Dart said:
I got the adapter from a guy on this site for $75.00 shipped,and the pitman arm from rockauto for $75.00. Yes,I am a little over my original estimate,but still a cheap change.

You dont necessarily have to change the pitman arm.Depending on the condition of yours. It just makes sense to put in a new part if you have it all apart,especially if its 40yrs old.

I have seen the adapter come up on e-bay from time to time.
Different car sites,swap meets,etc....
Click to expand...

thanks for the info johnny! ive looked on ebay, but its a matter of waiting for it to come up...as far as the pitman arm goes, it is nice to have a new one, but my old one is okay and i cant afford a new one anyways

I was talking to some who have said they just pulled the shaft out enough to be long enough for the manual box. Im wondering if there is enough engagement after doing this for it to be safe to use and have the column still collapse on impact?
 
mshred said:
I was talking to some who have said they just pulled the shaft out enough to be long enough for the manual box. Im wondering if there is enough engagement after doing this for it to be safe to use and have the column still collapse on impact?
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There's plenty of engagement the lower shaft only has to come out about an inch and a half which leaves about 3 inches of engagement the only problem is once the plastic shear pin between the inner and outer shaft is broken you will get some play in the steering shaft which will cause an annoying rattle.
 
daliant said:
There's plenty of engagement the lower shaft only has to come out about an inch and a half which leaves about 3 inches of engagement the only problem is once the plastic shear pin between the inner and outer shaft is broken you will get some play in the steering shaft which will cause an annoying rattle.
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only an inch and a half? I thought it had to come out closer to 4 inches? and if the shear pins are broken, then that means the shaft loses its collapsibility doesnt it?
 
The shear pin just keeps the two shafts from rattling, it will actually make the shaft collepse easier. Its been a while since i've switched columns around I think the lower shaft only had to come out about a inch and half, might depend on the coupler length but there was plenty of engagement between the two shafts on the last one I converted.
 
daliant said:
The shear pin just keeps the two shafts from rattling, it will actually make the shaft collepse easier. Its been a while since i've switched columns around I think the lower shaft only had to come out about a inch and half, might depend on the coupler length but there was plenty of engagement between the two shafts on the last one I converted.
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you have a pm8)
 
On my car, the previous owner just removed the power steering pump.

What problems is that going to cause me?
 
jeryst said:
On my car, the previous owner just removed the power steering pump.

What problems is that going to cause me?
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its gonna be harder to drive than a manual steering car
 
jeryst said:
On my car, the previous owner just removed the power steering pump.

What problems is that going to cause me?
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You arms will get bigger. And you will probably get dirt inside the steering box if the hoses are disconnected from it which isn't good.
 
Do you plan on racing this car? or is this more of a park & shine vehicle?.....because if you plan on racing it, then keeping a collapsible steering shaft is a good idea. not really necessary but a good idea. IF however you are mostly a park & shine kinda guy with the occasional burnout.... who cares? you likely aren't driving it daily? and you are likely pretty careful with it ( most are)....non collapsible columns are only "deadly" in a full head on at a pretty high rate of speed( kinda unlikely )......beyond that they NC's were in cars for almost 40 years, did they kill people ...YES, so did single bowl brakes, early manual steering boxes, no seat belts...the list is LONG!! IF you are a nice weather enthusiast, and aren't driving your classic like your *** is on fire all the time, then it really isn't much to worry about.... the cheapest way is to swap shafts, you can find the correct length on ebay or right here on FABO....just make sure you measure the shaft spline on the box some are 5/8 some are 3/4 and without the right coupling piece, you will be on another hunt very quickly....coupler rebuild kits are all over the place and they are pretty much universal( spline hole is not a factor).......if you want to keep collapsible, it is likely going to be a lil more expensive....remember you can only pick 2 from the eternal 3....FAST, GOOD or Cheap....... if you want Fast & GOOD it WILL not be cheap!! If you want Fast & Cheap it will not be good.....if you want GOOD & CHEAP it will take months! ( or longer)......the good news is YOU get to PICK!!
N joy!!
I just did my 66 from power to manual swapped out the shaft in the column swapped out the PS box, new pitman arm....total cost, cash $160 and a few swaps...the biggest $$$ were the manual box rebuild ( tighten it up seals & new gears $100) and the new pitman arm $60......the swaps were stuff that I had tripls of and no biggy....
 
you think you can break the nipple welded solid on both ends? if you dont break the coluum pins it is no different than original. just not as pretty. look at race car steering shafts and you wont worry about a nipple extension. i will send you a pic of mine.. The flaming river extension is connected by a slip joint and allen set screws. how can a solid weld be weaker?
 
daredevil said:
you think you can break the nipple welded solid on both ends? if you dont break the coluum pins it is no different than original. just not as pretty. look at race car steering shafts and you wont worry about a nipple extension. i will send you a pic of mine.. The flaming river extension is connected by a slip joint and allen set screws. how can a solid weld be weaker?
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hey daredevil, a pic would be great! sorry if i misunderstood you, its kinda hard to picture this stuff in my head

and to the previous poster, yes, the car is a street/strip car that will not be getting babied on the street...driven hard and as much as possible, so id like the extra safety feature of a collapsible shaft in the knock on wood case of an accident
 
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