Column shift, shift tube clocking question

[SeaDuster]

While cleaning up the tube, and making some improvements (I promise to share the details, if it works as planned) - I collapsed the shift tube. It looks like red Loctite or a couple light tack-welds will hold it securely in position and make it functional again. If the consensus is that that's not going to work - I'll chalk it up to experience and go find another one. (1972 340 Duster, automatic)

Anyway, one obstacle to reusing the tube is that I wasn't paying attention to the the clocking of the "arm" at the base to the key on the upper half when they slid together. Does anyone have a good photo that shows the relationship between the two? Do we have a sense of how precise does everything needs to be? I'd like the gear indicator to be reasonably accurate.

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[Dana67Dart]

You are 180 out per my 67 example.

You might have this he if it is 67 68?, it's for the back up light switch.

Replacement pins are not available so you might want to see about welding a nut on the hole to be able to screw a headless bolt into it after reassembly.

The green is an un compressed joint
Red is one that has been compressed

The length of the un compressed one is 12 - 3/8"

(The compressed one is 12")
Keep in mind this is off a 67 so your application might have a different dimension

Is yours completely apart?

I would love to see the parts where they were joined by the plastic.

As for a way to keep them together, you might look into a plastic screw that you can put into one of the holes on each side?

I have heard of people using epoxy to refill where the plastic is. Maybe oil up the metal so the epoxy does not stick to the metal but makes the locking tabs that hold it all together.