Cooling situation

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track safe

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CFR makes 7" fans rated at 1500 cfm each, I have 4 on my champion rad and their amp draw is low only 3 amps, I have more heat than you have with twins but I stay below 190 after a run and sitting idle I get up to 210 and that's with a Meizer pump, 35gpm but that's at 12v my system is 14 so it makes a bit more, still might upgrade to their heavy duty where the base flow is 42 gpm just to run a little cooler.
7" HIGH PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC RADIATOR COOLING FAN - FLAT BLADE

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Nice! I'll have to look into that. That would be double my cfm.
 
I've got a dual Derale fan and shroud assembly. The two fans are in the corners and gives you some room in the middle. It may clear your pump. But these draw a lot of amps. If your fan isn't drawing a lot it's garbage. Many sizes available but they are pricey.

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Truer words have never been spoken. People get electric fans and go for the 99 buck specials. It just won't work.
 

Well, while trailering the car last weekend I discovered a small leak in the radiator. It is a cheap 12 year old Jegs aluminum radiator, so I'm going to replace it with one from Summit, mainly because I live an hour away from Summit and they have one pulled for me so I can get it plumbed today hopefully. Also discovered that the Jegs radiator was a single pass, so I should see some cooling improvement. I'll get back with results once I get it in.
 
Well, while trailering the car last weekend I discovered a small leak in the radiator. It is a cheap 12 year old Jegs aluminum radiator, so I'm going to replace it with one from Summit, mainly because I live an hour away from Summit and they have one pulled for me so I can get it plumbed today hopefully. Also discovered that the Jegs radiator was a single pass, so I should see some cooling improvement. I'll get back with results once I get it in.

I would STRONGLY discourage you from a double pass radiator. Do some research before you buy.

In fact, go to stewartcomponents.com and read all the tech articles they have before you waste your money.
 
I would STRONGLY discourage you from a double pass radiator. Do some research before you buy.

In fact, go to stewartcomponents.com and read all the tech articles they have before you waste your money.
Well, while trailering the car last weekend I discovered a small leak in the radiator. It is a cheap 12 year old Jegs aluminum radiator, so I'm going to replace it with one from Summit, mainly because I live an hour away from Summit and they have one pulled for me so I can get it plumbed today hopefully. Also discovered that the Jegs radiator was a single pass, so I should see some cooling improvement. I'll get back with results once I get it in.
Specifically;

Tech Tip #5: Radiators & External Plumbing - Stewart Components
 
Thanks I had to pull the trigger quickly as I need to be on the road to the next race Thursday. Upon further investigation while at Summit an hour ago to pick it up, it is indeed a single pass crossflow with inlet and out close enough to the original that I should have to do minimal plumbing changes to install it. I think I will use my bottle of watter wetter and distilled water and call it good!
 
Thanks I had to pull the trigger quickly as I need to be on the road to the next race Thursday. Upon further investigation while at Summit an hour ago to pick it up, it is indeed a single pass crossflow with inlet and out close enough to the original that I should have to do minimal plumbing changes to install it. I think I will use my bottle of watter wetter and distilled water and call it good!


You dodged a bullet there lol.
 
UPDATE: Took the car to Ardmore, Oklahoma for Windmill Nationals. Friday got rained out. Went 4 rounds both Saturday and Sunday. New radiator performed well. Cools off faster in the pits with motor off then the old one did. To be honest it's not a fair test of the system, as the high both days was in the upper 70's. It is a summit branded radiator for big block Mopar Part #SUM-380460. Now I need to experiment with a restrictor in the thermostat housing.
 
UPDATE: Took the car to Ardmore, Oklahoma for Windmill Nationals. Friday got rained out. Went 4 rounds both Saturday and Sunday. New radiator performed well. Cools off faster in the pits with motor off then the old one did. To be honest it's not a fair test of the system, as the high both days was in the upper 70's. It is a summit branded radiator for big block Mopar Part #SUM-380460. Now I need to experiment with a restrictor in the
Congrats - going 4 rounds is not something to be taken lightly. And you did it twice! Well done sir.
 
UPDATE: Finally got a chance to see how the new radiator would perform in the heat. 95 with 65-70% humidity and no breeze! It was brutal out there. Water never got over 180 degrees despite a long trip through the pits back to my trailer. I would still like to experiment with a restrictor because I think water is flowing too fast through the radiator at idle.
Oh yeah, I went 5 rounds and it was still cooling from 180 to 115 in about 10 minutes in the pits.
 
UPDATE: Finally got a chance to see how the new radiator would perform in the heat. 95 with 65-70% humidity and no breeze! It was brutal out there. Water never got over 180 degrees despite a long trip through the pits back to my trailer. I would still like to experiment with a restrictor because I think water is flowing too fast through the radiator at idle.
Oh yeah, I went 5 rounds and it was still cooling from 180 to 115 in about 10 minutes in the pits.
Forget the cooling part....5 rounds is terrific! Congrats!
 
Forget the cooling part....5 rounds is terrific! Congrats!
I got the bye in round 4 but then I made my pass the right slick spun and sent me right toward the wall so I had to abort. I needed that pass to know what to dial in for round 5. Consequently the car picked up a lot more than I thought it would and I broke out by a bunch in round 5 :( Round 5 was mine but I didn't know I was breaking out, so I did :(
Most bracket races I'm in you have to get to round 6 before you're into the $$, but weather kept a lot of people at home Saturday making round 5 the quarter finals so I went home with some cash. I'll take it any way I can get it at this point!
 
UPDATE: Finally got a chance to see how the new radiator would perform in the heat. 95 with 65-70% humidity and no breeze! It was brutal out there. Water never got over 180 degrees despite a long trip through the pits back to my trailer. I would still like to experiment with a restrictor because I think water is flowing too fast through the radiator at idle.
Oh yeah, I went 5 rounds and it was still cooling from 180 to 115 in about 10 minutes in the pits.


You do not want to slow the coolant down. If anything you want it as fast as you can move it.

IIRC the too fast through the radiator came from t eh early days of the flat head.

That myth needs to die.
 
You do not want to slow the coolant down. If anything you want it as fast as you can move it.

IIRC the too fast through the radiator came from t eh early days of the flat head.

That myth needs to die.
So you don't think the coolant can move through the radiator faster than the radiator can remove heat from it?
 
So you don't think the coolant can move through the radiator faster than the radiator can remove heat from it?


Nope. If it stays in the radiator longer that means it stays in the hot engine longer.

Go to the Stewart Components web site and read the tech pages.

Flowkooler bas some great tech pages too. Both are worth reading.
 
The only reason to run a restrictor is the same reason for running a thermostat, you want to MAINTAIN a MINIMUM coolant temperature. If you want it to continue to drop to 115 or less in the pits, don’t put either in and continue to circulate water as fast as you can.
 
The restrictor [or stat ] is not there to just regulate the temp. If you calculate the area of the coolant holes in the head gasket, you will find that area is considerably greater than the flow area of the stat. Purposely designed like that, so that the stat becomes the restriction. The restriction causes pressure to build up in the coolant, which in turn suppresses localised [ nucleate ] boiling which can occur around hot spots such as exh ports. Localised boiling causes bubbles, which are air bubbles, & air is a very poor conductor of heat. Suppressing the bubbles helps overall cooling.
 
The restrictor [or stat ] is not there to just regulate the temp. If you calculate the area of the coolant holes in the head gasket, you will find that area is considerably greater than the flow area of the stat. Purposely designed like that, so that the stat becomes the restriction. The restriction causes pressure to build up in the coolant, which in turn suppresses localised [ nucleate ] boiling which can occur around hot spots such as exh ports. Localised boiling causes bubbles, which are air bubbles, & air is a very poor conductor of heat. Suppressing the bubbles helps overall cooling.
How many psl of pressure?
 
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