Couple 904 and Transgo TF-2 Questions

[4spdragtop]

Hi all, currently redoing our 67 904 as well as installing a Transgo TF-2.
A couple questions and probably more to come.
Upon inspection of direct drum, there are witness marks that appear to be from the steel plates? But the plates are held below the witness marks with a snap ring.
Is this an issue? The steels are fine.

Now my Transgo TF2. The good thing ive discovered someone else has been in the valve body and already filed the groove/notch. As well as drilling 1/8" hole. So saved me some work.
I am at the mod where it states to grind down inboard land on the reverse servo piston. It specifically states this for 727, BUT no mention of the 904??
Ive seen a couple Boobtube videos that did it with 904's.
Thoughts?
Pics
Thanks
Steve

 

[Vaanth]

The pictured drum looks okay.

The Trans-Go correction for the Low/Reverse binding or cocking issue is for the 727 Torqueflite only, and aimed at the 1977 and later versions that could be affected.

The issue does not occur in all later 727 transmissions. I have a 1977 727 with 380000 miles on it and it has never suffered the issue. I rebuilt it and added a Trans-Go kit in 1990 at about 200000.

The following image shows the Trans-Go Advanced Transmission Servicing (aka. Research) Technical Note when the correction advice was introduced:

If the image is not readable, the note is attached as a PDF of the image too.

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[4spdragtop]

Thanks for the detailed info and documents!

The pictured drum looks okay.

The Trans-Go correction for the Low/Reverse binding or cocking issue is for the 727 Torqueflite only, and aimed at the 1977 and later versions that could be affected.

The issue does not occur in all later 727 transmissions. I have a 1977 727 with 380000 miles on it and it has never suffered the issue. I rebuilt it and added a Trans-Go kit in 1990 at about 200000.

The following image shows the Trans-Go Advanced Transmission Servicing (aka. Research) Technical Note when the correction advice was introduced:
View attachment 1716516389

If the image is not readable, the note is attached as a PDF of the image too.

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[4spdragtop]

OK, there is a setting on the VB to set the throttle pressure. FSM states use of Miller tool C-3763. See pic. It appears there is a "spec/distance" from throttle lever cam and throttle valve. You set the Phillips headed stop screw to that "spec/distance/depth". Anyone know the spec?
Thanks
Steve

 

[Vaanth]

OK, there is a setting on the VB to set the throttle pressure. FSM states use of Miller tool C-3763. See pic. It appears there is a "spec/distance" from throttle lever cam and throttle valve. You set the Phillips headed stop screw to that "spec/distance/depth". Anyone know the spec?
Thanks
Steve

View attachment 1716516863

View attachment 1716516864

Alternatively to the factory method with the Miller C-3763, use a 3/16" drill to measure and set the throttle stop adjustment as shown in the following image, after the kickdown valve assembly is installed and at rest:

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[4spdragtop]

Thanks for posting, ive seen that Pic somewhere before. I found a thread on here where it appears the Miller Tool C-3763 is equal to approx 0.632", just a smidgen over 5/8. Im going to try a 5/8" headed bolt and compare to the alternative method you posted above.
Thanks again.

I chanced on a Miller copy of the tool and thought I would report back that the business end measures .632 inches. A shade over 5/8 inch which I'll be double checking the next time I drop the pan. It's been bugging me not knowing and hope the info on this dimension helps someone else in the future.

Alternatively to the factory method with the Miller C-3763, use a 3/16" drill to measure and set the throttle stop adjustment as shown in the following image, after the kickdown valve assembly is installed and at rest:
View attachment 1716516915

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[4spdragtop]

Well the 5/8" method left me know where near the alternative 3/16" drill bit method.
And I discovered the weld on backside of throttle shaft cam has let loose and there is a slight wobble to the cam....
Im not sure if im measuring incorrectly?
Thanks

 

[Vaanth]

Well the 5/8" method left me know where near the alternative 3/16" drill bit method.
And I discovered the weld on backside of throttle shaft cam has let loose and there is a slight wobble to the cam....
Im not sure if im measuring incorrectly?
Thanks

View attachment 1716516953

View attachment 1716516954

View attachment 1716516955

The measurement and potential adjustment here is for the throttle stop position, using the kickdown valve travel, and the throttle lever cam, or kickdown cam.

The Chrysler method measures the distance of 0.63 inch between the compressed kickdown cam and the throttle lever cam with it against the stop.

The Trans-Go method measures the distance of the 3/16 inch between the other side of the throttle lever cam and the throttle stop, with the throttle lever cam against the kickdown valve, at rest. Two approaches to the same or similar final resultant of the throttle stop position.

Other companies approach it a third way with the gap between the throttle lever cam and the kickdown valve, at rest, with the throttle lever cam against the throttle stop using a 1/8 inch drill as shown in the following image:

Some companies do not address the adjustment at all. In those cases and others, if the stop is not removed, leaving as the factory set it, which would be the measurement with the Miller tool, is sufficient. Later style A904/A727/A500/A518 cages are a little different, but the stop gap is checked the same.

Of the Torqueflite transmissions I have rebuilt, I have used a few different brands and styles of kits. The following listing shows what each specified:

• Trans-Go TF-1 : 3/16” drill
• Trans-Go TF-2 : 3/16” drill
• Trans-Go TF-3 : 3/16” drill
• Re-packed Trans-Go TF-2 under other brand names using TF-B or TF-C instructions: 3/16” drill
• Trans-Go SK TF-SC : No adjustment
• Trans-Go SK TFOD Jr : No adjustment
• ATP TK1 : No adjustment
• Fairbanks Reprogramming Kit : 1/8" drill
• B&M Transpack : 1/8" drill
• B&M Transkit (Transpack included): 1/8" drill
• B&M Shift Improver Kit (separator plate kit) : No adjustment
• TCI Trans Scat : 1/8" drill
• Turbo Action Positive Action : No adjustment
• Turbo Action Power Shift (separator plate kit): No adjustment
• RPM Superkit : 1/8" drill
• Direct Connection P3690633 Shift Package : No adjustment

The lesser kits don't involve the throttle stop. In general, use the method that best matches what is in the valve body, especially so if the TV valve has been ground down. Or, use what you prefer. It should be set for appropriate gap clearance, but in the words of Gil Younger, "It's not fussy".

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[4spdragtop]

Thanks again Vaanth. So i measured the resultant spec differences. When I used 3/16 drill bit, it resulted with an approx 1.00" from bottom of head on Phillips throttle stop adj screw to bottom of locknut(1st pic)
Now using the 0.600" method from edge of VB casting to cam on lever resulted with an approx measurement of 0.8715"(2nd and 3rd pic)
Quite the difference imo(0.1285").
This being my 1st transmission rebuild im confused/concerned lol.
When I make these adjustments/measurements does it make a difference which gear its in?
I hope my description/pics make sense.
Oh, yes the TV was ground down as per Transgo instructions.
Thanks.

 

[4spdragtop]

To carry on from abv post. I believe that when using 5/8" bolt method there is too much due to the valve only being flush with casting. In reality the valve can be pushed in(bottomed out) further approx 1/8"(0.125"). Making the 3/16 drill bit more plausible.
I think the Miller Tool C-3763 fits inside the bore enough to fully bottom out valve.
Thanks, gonna go with 3/16" drill bit method

 

[transman]

They have a Tech line. Give them a call.

 

[Vaanth]

To carry on from abv post. I believe that when using 5/8" bolt method there is too much due to the valve only being flush with casting. In reality the valve can be pushed in(bottomed out) further approx 1/8"(0.125"). Making the 3/16 drill bit more plausible.
I think the Miller Tool C-3763 fits inside the bore enough to fully bottom out valve.
Thanks, gonna go with 3/16" drill bit method

Yes, using the bolt head does not compress the valve inward beyond where it is even with the outer part. The Chrysler instruction states to use the tool to push the valve in until it bottoms:

The tool looks like the following image:

I've never had nor used the tool myself. Using the tool is likely the most precise method with stock parts, but the alternate measurements are close enough, and really the only way without a modified tool if the TV valve has been ground down.

I've used the alternate method per the kit maker when I've installed kits, or otherwise adjusted the throttle stop.

The position of the gear selector when measuring does not matter.

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[townsend]

Miller C-3763 has been discontinued.
Kind of expensive but the tool can be found on eBay.

 

[4spdragtop]

I saw that lol, for $100. The 3/16 drill bit will work just fine.

Miller C-3763 has been discontinued.
Kind of expensive but the tool can be found on eBay.