Dakota 4.7 dropped valve seat

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moparisbest

moparisbest

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Hello a little back ground on the truck . At 139,000 miles rod started knocking . My fault not changing oil . Got reman engine . 3 year unlimited mileage warranty . Not even 15,000 miles on new engine and it dropped a valve seat . It didn't brake up and damage anything else thank god . But made the valve stick open . So after researching I see that everyone seems to say the same thing that overheating the engine is what causes it to drop . Well the engine never over heated. My question is . Is it possible that if the seat was never seated completely in the head that it could have worked it self loose ? Reason I'm asking is after the first start and brake in . It has had a rocker tap . Noise . And my thanking is that it was never completely seated in the head . Someone tell me I'm not crazy lol
 
nope, nothing you done. all the 3.7, 4.7 and 5.7's all do it. all most always the right front cylinder. Now here's the *** kicker, when you go to fix this, there is metal in the intake manifold. Flush the intake out thoroughly. trust me you want to do this. I've seen this more than I care to admit.
 
Is this a NAPA engine? I have one that a buddy of mine installed in his car and he is a professional mechanic but NAPA wouldn't honor their warranty. H e got pissed and I bought the car. Now it is a parts car for my wife's car.
 
Yep passenger side front . Do you thank that It might not have been seated correctly ? What can be done to keep it from doing it again ?
 
When I worked in a machine/speed shop, was taught .003 to .005" interference fit.A possibility, a shoddy machinist slapped in one loose. Or on top,of a welded crack not machined properly.Send that head /engine back,file a labor claim.As a parts guy,I get more questions/quotes on the 4.7:than any other mill.
 
Can someone tell me what the hours and amount I should charge . For the labor claim . What will the correct labor charge be for a head job lol no other way to say it get your mind out of the gutter
 
Do you go,to a repair shop you use/trust? Find a service writer you know.Ask him,what the hourage is. If you on good ground with him,cool stuff.Either way,give him some doughnuts,or a good lunch.
 
When I was looking at a Ram parts runner truck (reg. cab short bed sport), the salesman told me to stay away from the 4.7L V8. At first I thought he was just trying to get me to spend the extra bucks on the Hemi, but a quick check here and a few other places soon led to to know that the 4.7 was a liability.
I stepped up to an extended cab Hemi, for nearly the same price. THANK YOU!
 
Its not to bad of a job on the 4.7. I just did head gaskets one There is 3 timing chains in the motor. It uses different colored links on the chain to put it back in time. Also I think the head bolts had to be changed out since they are stretch to yield.
 
Man that sucks. Like bomber said their an interference fit so if the machinist didn't do things right they can drop out. Nowadays with so many remanufacturers in the business with nothing but dollar signs in their eyes things like that are happening more and more.
 
moparisbest said:
Can someone tell me what the hours and amount I should charge . For the labor claim . What will the correct labor charge be for a head job lol no other way to say it get your mind out of the gutter
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What year and 2 or 4 wd I have access to alldata


Brian
 
A few years ago when I was a chrysler tech. I had two Jeep Cherokees come in the shop with #7 cyl. misfires. After doing the different checks, found low compression on that cyl. Upon removing the head I found the exhaust valve burnt. Sent the head to a local machine shop and if my memory serves me the machinist said that the guide wasn't machined right from the factory and with 20 k miles on it, was no longer seating causing misfire. Was repaired under warranty, but almost one month later another one came in with the same complaint, and same repair, which I completed as well. I never had seen a bad 4.7 and thought that was just something that happened. I just traded in a 2011 ram 1500 with a 4.7. Was a good gas mileage motor, but was a gutless wonder for towing. I towed a small enclosed motorcyle trl. with one bike in it to Myrtle Beach last year and was not impressed, compared to the old 5.2 I had before. The 4.7 was always reving high and looking for the right gear and keeping it at highway speeds while pulling hills, ect. was frustrating. Had hemi's before, decent towing, but didn't like the fuel mileage. Sorry to get off topic but reading about 4.7 issues I'm glad I moved on. Just my two cents.
 
The engine place trying to void my warranty says because heat tab was missing . Took picks of heat tab on drivers head look to me like the glue there using to put the heat tabs on is fealing before the tab what do you think . I think its a gimmick to void people warranty if tab is missing they assume you pried it off so they can tell it over heated . My engine never overheated View attachment 20130225_123155.jpg

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I have heard about the 4.7 running hot on the right rear cylinder and cooking the rings as well . I almost bought one till i heard that . It supposedly happens around or after 100,000 miles I almost traded my lifted, built 78 w200 for it because i wanted a pick up that got better than 8mpg . glad i didnt .
 
bcschief said:
Head gaskets for both is 10.2 hrs and R&R and grind valves is 13.4 hrs. I would go with the 10.2 hrs plus the machine shop bill. Not sure what shops in your area charge per hr
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The guy I had build the 440 in my duster is working on the 4.7 head and told me about 45.00 plus parts for the one valve seat . And cleaning the head
 
Way smart move,best of luck. Hate selling remand,as a parts guy.
 
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