Dana 60.

[Dragonbat13]

In south louisiana it isnt easy too find an 8 3/4 a body rear end (What I originally wanted to go with). However, 9 3/4 diffs are everywhere. By the time I ship everything to get the 8 3/4 it would be costly. The only thing is that alot of the 9 3/4 are gonna be full floating.

Are these full floating axles worth looking into? Or should I stick with going the 8 3/4 route?

My thinking is that I will get a stronger diff with aftermarket axles for just slightly more money, and the ease of finding a good car.

Really, the bigger diff is overkill. The plans are a tremec swap behind a maximum 500 horse magnum smallblock 408. A street driver, 73 Dart Sport. My biggest thing is the unsprung weight of the bigger diff. That is, if the full floating diff will even work.

It will be awhile before I do the work. BUT I will keep an eye out for a particular Dana 60 if necessary.

Thanks.

 

[ssba]

If you never have the desire to go big block in the future its probably not worth the trouble to
convert a floater housing for most folks.
I have the converted truck Dana's in 3 cars currently. Wouldn't think of useing anything less with even a stock or mild built big block with a stick.
Just using a little larger tire out back has proven fatal for the 8 3/4 diff in my cars more than once.
The 8 3/4s are worth to much to destroy these days so I sell them off when i get one.Then put the funds into the Dana's.
I do treat them meaner than some would.
As far as being on the lookout for a Dana the best way to keep cost down is find one with a
ratio you can live with and a power or track loc in working order already installed. Side gears can be changed to match axles for much less money than changing gears or sure grip unit.

 

[moparlover]

if you do get a truck dana, get one from a van instead of a pickup. the gears are usually in perfect shape in the vans.

then you will need to get the tubes cut, weld on new ends, get new axles. perches get welded on. Dr. Diff can set you up with what you need, he can get any/everything at the lowest prices you will find anywhere. he will source the stuff for you even.

i did this i found a '69 power lok unit for mine, so i could have the suregrip. Dr. Diff put new clutches in it for me.

all in all the cost was comparable to buying a strange 60, so it's all up to you what you want to do. if you can get the suregrip unit or spool cheap, and the rear is cheap you could save some money.

the 8 3/4 will hold up for racing BUT that's if you dont have a real heavy hog of a car. if you have a 3800 lbs car and huge horsepower and good chassis/slicks so it hooks hard you can break an 8 3/4.

 

[74Dusted]

all in all the cost was comparable to buying a strange 60, so it's all up to you what you want to do. if you can get the suregrip unit or spool cheap, and the rear is cheap you could save some money.

More like REALLY CHEAP. Truck Dana 60's sell for about $50 - $100 (They're everywhere, dime a dozen, truck guys generally throw them away to bolt in a Dana 70 or Dana 80). If you pay more than $100 for a Dana 60 Rear, you got screwed hard.

$50-100 for a Dana 60
$70 for a pair of Strange 8.75"/Dana 60 Housing Ends
$300 for a set of Strange A-Body 8.75"/Dana 60 Axleshafts
$220 for a Spool OR $400 for a Trak-Loc (new)
$220 - $250 for a Ring & Pinion in the gear ratio you want.
$160 for a Master Kit (Bearings, Gasket, Seals, etc)

Roughly $1,000+ Cheaper than a "Bolt In" Dana 60.

 

[1967 'cuda]

The truck Dana 60 was the cheaper route for me. The brake cost was identical between the 8&3/4 and the Dana. The initial cost of the rear was cheaper. - And I would guess that narrowing and axle costs would be the same.

View attachment 30.jpg

 

[RustyRatRod]

Then I feel purdy good about my Dana 70 I got for 100 bucks delivered. Bolted right in the rat truck.

More like REALLY CHEAP. Truck Dana 60's sell for about $50 - $100 (They're everywhere, dime a dozen, truck guys generally throw them away to bolt in a Dana 70 or Dana 80). If you pay more than $100 for a Dana 60 Rear, you got screwed hard.

$50-100 for a Dana 60
$70 for a pair of Strange 8.75"/Dana 60 Housing Ends
$300 for a set of Strange A-Body 8.75"/Dana 60 Axleshafts
$220 for a Spool OR $400 for a Trak-Loc (new)
$220 - $250 for a Ring & Pinion in the gear ratio you want.
$160 for a Master Kit (Bearings, Gasket, Seals, etc)

Roughly $1,000+ Cheaper than a "Bolt In" Dana 60.

 

[74Dusted]

Then I feel purdy good about my Dana 70 I got for 100 bucks delivered. Bolted right in the rat truck.

Pretty good deal.. The only Dana 60 I know of that costs a fortune, is a Dana 60 Front Axle from a Dodge, Ford or Chevy. They're popular with the off-road crowd. Off-Road companies have the market cornered on that one (in the same way that mopar muscle owners are bent over a barrel for parts/prices)

 

[moparlover]

yeah but dont forget to include welding services if you dont have a welder. also you need a long mandrel tool to line it up right when ya weld the ends on. dr diff can tell you how to make a tool, lenght of the axle tubes, angle for the perches etc

 

[1967 'cuda]

Another nice thing about modifying the old truck Dana 60s is that you can choose the exact width you want to end up with. By scoping out and measuring your current axle assembly you can have the dimensions altered to accommodate a better tire fit or wheel backspacing.