deleting voltage regulator + electronic ign. wiring

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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Hey guys I'm planning on swapping to a Toyota 120amp mini alternator in my Demon (383BB/auto) using the Mancini alternator bracket, it is internally regulated so there is no need for the regulator bolted to the firewall, how can I safely go about removing it and wiring in teh new alternator?

I also plan to revamp my Demon's electronic ignition wiring (bought a new swap harness) to replace the cobbled mess it has now.. no wires are marked so I have nothing to go off of - (YAY speaker wire!)

It had a slant 6 so only need these ^ question answered and stretch/ shorten a few wires and it's ready to go!

If anyone can help that'd be great!
 
I'm assuming you bypassed the ammeter and the bulkhead connectors. Otherwise make sure your fire insurance is paid
 
I haven't done anything yet.. I asking what/how to delete the voltage regulator in my Demon..

In Ford's it's easy you just leave it unplugged, wire in 12v switched power, a 12v signal(wired to the battery), and the amp meter in the dash just doesn't work (I have a volt gauge I'm going to install next to my wide band)
 
There should be a dark blue wire and a dark green wire on the voltage regulator, both of which go to the alternator. The dark blue wire is the ignition voltage feed from the ignition switch. It is probably spliced and connected to the ballast resistor.

This is speculation since you did not specify the year of your car, any wiring modifications or the color of the wires you now have. If you do not have a wiring diagram or know how to read one you can make some expensive smoke by poking around blind.
 
There was a link for an electrical conversion. click this link http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
very informative, very common sense. Poke around and become familiar with the principles. You only have , from the factory, like a 10 ga wire from alternator through the bulkhead via very flimsy male/female spade terminals and supplies all your electrical consumers. If you upgrade your charging system, you'll have to upgrade your wiring. Additionally your gonna wanna bypass the bulkhead connections and utilize a straight pass through such as an insulated stud that passes through the firewall. You'lldefinitely have to bypass the ammeter and run your consumers off relays vs the ignition and light switches. BTW 5 pin relays are typically limited to max amps of 35-40 better at no more than 30 . 4 pin heavy relays can handle up to 70 again they last longer with lighter loads. Good luck.
 
Do a search against AbodyJoes posts. He has bad *** factory service manuals in pdf for easy download. That should be able to get you started. Lots of good info on this sight. Search function is your friend, not always spot on though.
Also look at posts by 67dart273, trailbeast, and rustyratrod. All valuable sources of information, but they won't babysit you. If they ask you to perform a test, do it. There's a reason. Report back ASAP. They don't have to help, but i think they get off on it. They just won't put up with know it all smart assets that can't be helped.
 
Those Madd articles are invaluable. I did the alternator reroute and headlight relays in an afternoon. Read the thread in the "How to area" it's worth your time.
 
I have a 68 dodge service manual- gave my 70 dodge manual to the guy that bought my 70 dart.. - my car is a 71 Demon slant 6 going to big block want to relay the headlights and run an electric fan - the alternator is a Toyota(Denso) 120amp internally regulated alt - I will be running a new fused charge wire and only use the factory wiring to excite the new alternator.
 
So you're running alt batt + back to starter or starter relay? Large enough cable to handle the amp load? Not saying you need 00ga welding cable. A good 2 or 4 ga should be sufficient. You're handling the bulkhead pass through how? I would plug the existing cavity and get a good solid lug that is insulated against the firewall, threaded on both ends. Try to stay away from running loads through the bulkhead connectors, use those for low current relay switching signals. Good luck.
BTW, fuse link at either end is cheap insurance against ground fault fires. It fails instantly protecting everything else.
 
Why does the charge wire need to go inside the car? Never needed to in my Mustang and that had a external voltage regulator..

I plan a 125amp fused 4ga charge wire 6"-12" from the alt
 
It doesn't need to. Original wiring dictated as the charge/discharge passed through the ammeter. with the upgrading , no longer necessary. You just need a feed for switching your relays. Did you find the factory service manual yet?
 
funwithfuel said:
It doesn't need to. Original wiring dictated as the charge/discharge passed through the ammeter. with the upgrading , no longer necessary. You just need a feed for switching your relays. Did you find the factory service manual yet?
Click to expand...
Been using my manual for torque spec's, relays will not get power from inside the car - they will get there own fused power straight from the battery..
 
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