engine plate/timing cover/water pump?

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abdywgn

abdywgn

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when using an engine plate to mount the engine in the car, what must/should be done to the timing cover? should the "lip" be milled down to the flat surface of the water pump area? if that is done, will a standard belt driven water pump function? (not taking into account any pulley misalignment). or at this point, would an electric pump be the best idea? no particular application in mind, just that it would be a small block. Thanks!
 
On my '65 with small block I did nothing to the timing cover. The 1/4" aluminum plate I used is located forward of the timing cover. Hard to see in this picture but that's the way it is.

scan0018.jpg
 
You need to mill the thickness of the engine plate off the timing cover.

If not, it moves the water pump impeller too far from the cover. Not even a HV pump will work correctly if you don’t.

Do guys not do it? All the time. Is it the way it should be done? Nope.

FWIW I measure and mill all the timing covers so I have gasket thickness clearance between the impeller and the cover.

Also, as per Meizere I’m going to send the coolant from the heater core back to the radiator and not back into the engine.

The coolant is still fairly hot after it leaves the heater core. So back to the radiator rather than dumping hot coolant on top of coolant right out of the radiator.
 
mygasser said:
much more spendy than milling the t/cover a 1/4" though.
neil.
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Not if you make it yourself. My son buys the 2 1/2 thick aluminum at Moses Glick scrap yard per lb. to make torque plates. He makes what ever he needs. I am trying to get him to pump some out but he is swamped with industrial Diesel work and only 3 employees. I don't think he is reusing it. He bought a belt drive. So its just sitting here to copy. Or sell
 
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Oldmanmopar said:
Not if you make it yourself. My son buys the 2 1/2 thick aluminum at Moses Glick scrap yard per lb. to make torque plates. He makes what ever he needs. I am trying to get him to pump some out but he is swamped with industrial Diesel work and only 3 employees. I don't think he is reusing it. He bought a belt drive. So its just sitting here to copy. Or sell
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i'm sure he could mill 1/4" from the stock cover faster than milling a custom cover from solid, so yes it's cheaper to 'modify' the stock one. nowhere near as pretty though that's for sure, your son does great work :thumbsup:
 

Shows my not so stout motor plate. I use it together with normal motor mounts to limit engine movement. I agree ideally the front of timing cover should be milled, but I had mine chrome plated and did not want to mess it up. Flow Cooler I think used to make a sheet metal disc you could rivet to the rear of the impeller to help with efficiency. I did that exactly and have not had a problem.

IMG_20250228_172019.jpg
 
I have my engine mounted with a motor plate, but I use a Moroso electric water pump. The only thing is, I'm race only.
 
DC 340 said:
Shows my not so stout motor plate. I use it together with normal motor mounts to limit engine movement. I agree ideally the front of timing cover should be milled, but I had mine chrome plated and did not want to mess it up. Flow Cooler I think used to make a sheet metal disc you could rivet to the rear of the impeller to help with efficiency. I did that exactly and have not had a problem.

View attachment 1716372053
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The disc helps, but if you add a quarter inch it doesn’t do anything anymore.

The coolant just basically leaks around the back of it.
 
I have a question. I am not disrespecting anyone on their use of engine plates. I just wonder if there is a valid reason to use an engine plate for anything other than racing or a street car with a ridiculous amount of HP?
 
My reason was that someone torched off the mountings for the engine in mine before I got it.
 
harrisonm said:
I have a question. I am not disrespecting anyone on their use of engine plates. I just wonder if there is a valid reason to use an engine plate for anything other than racing or a street car with a ridiculous amount of HP?
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non-Mopar body and not wanting to hodge-podge brackets/insulators and plate steel to make it work. +, there would be more room for the headers
 
Newbomb Turk said:
The disc helps, but if you add a quarter inch it doesn’t do anything anymore.

The coolant just basically leaks around the back of it.
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Sure, but I wonder what would be left of my timing cover after being milled 1/4". Picture showing my 1/4" plate next to timing cover.

IMG_20250228_190848.jpg
 
and here is a rocket scientist observation: you would use an engine plate that is "solid", i.e., does not have the water pump area cut out. correct?
 
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