Evapo-rust for suspension bits?

[Captainkirk]

I see several people recommending Evapo-rust for removing rust on cast iron parts (like front suspension bits). I've read the online reviews but wondering if there are any real-life reviews from FABO members that can vouch for it? At $30.00 per gallon it ain't cheap to experiment with and would likely have to get very creative with to make a gallon cover an upper or lower control arm. It is supposed to be non-corrosive and not harmful to people. Any testimonials out there, good or bad? Or alternatives to wire wheel or sandblasting methods? Thanks.

 

[4spdragtop]

Evaporust works great. With odd shaped parts use spacers. Gotta get creative with the containers. Use only enough to submerge the parts.

 

[junkyardhero]

how rusty we talkin' over here?

evaporust works, but it's spendy and its working life can be short if the parts are in real bad shape.

pure undiluted pinesol, citric acid (buy in powder form off amazon) or phosphoric acid are all decent performers but require some level of soak time.

i found the best practice is to stand them on end in a 5gal bucket and submerge.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The best and cheapest way is Water , Baking soda, and an old battery charger.




Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the Container:
   Fill the plastic bucket with enough warm water to completely submerge the rusty tool.
   
   
2. Add the Electrolyte:
   Add baking soda to the water and mix it to create an electrolyte solution. A common recommendation is about 2/3 cup of baking soda for 5 gallons of water.
   
   
3. Prepare the Anode:
   Submerge the sacrificial anode (steel) in the solution. Ensure the anode is not touching the tool.
   
   
4. Position the Tool:
   Suspend the rusty tool in the water.
   
   
5. Connect the Charger:
   Connect the positive (+) terminal of the battery charger to the sacrificial anode and the negative (-) terminal to the rusty tool.
   
   
6. Start the Process:
   Turn on the battery charger. Bubbles will form on the tool, indicating the electrolysis process has begun.
   
   
7. Wait for the Rust to Migrate:
   Let the process run for several hours, or even overnight. The rust will move from the tool and collect on the sacrificial anode.
   
   
8. Finish:
   Once the rust has been removed, unplug the battery charger, remove the tool, and use the soft bristle brush to scrub off any remaining residue.

 

[Icetech]

I see several people recommending Evapo-rust for removing rust on cast iron parts (like front suspension bits). I've read the online reviews but wondering if there are any real-life reviews from FABO members that can vouch for it? At $30.00 per gallon it ain't cheap to experiment with and would likely have to get very creative with to make a gallon cover an upper or lower control arm. It is supposed to be non-corrosive and not harmful to people. Any testimonials out there, good or bad? Or alternatives to wire wheel or sandblasting methods? Thanks.

don't buy evaporust, it is a ripoff.. it does work but the price is insane... you can make 20 gallons for about $20.. i keep a huge tub of it in my garage to throw parts in when needed..

Rust removal, better than evaporust and 10x cheaper..

soo.. so in doing my car which was a michigan car i have dealt with a lot of rust and spent way too much money on evaporust that i finally went online and looked and found this guys video and made his mix and it worked better than evaporust and lasts longer so far. Sadly i'm down to only a few...

www.forbbodiesonly.com

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The process used above can be used to plate parts also with zinc, copper or nickel . The mixture is different and the Positive and negative are switched. I zinc and nickel plate tonka parts. Using salt and vinegar mixture

After you have the part coated you can polish it to chrome look. Also zinc and copper polish to a shine.


Nickel Plating Process

1. Solution Preparation:
   Mix white vinegar in a container and add a tablespoon of salt to increase conductivity.
   
   
2. Electrode Setup:
   Hang two pieces of pure nickel, over the edge of the container, ensuring they do not touch each other.
   
   
3. Solution Charging:
   Connect the positive terminal of your power supply to one nickel piece (the anode) and the negative terminal to the other nickel piece. As the solution is charged, the liquid will turn a pale green, indicating the presence of nickel ions.
   
   
4. Plating:
   Connect the part to be plated to the negative terminal (the cathode) and immerse it in the solution. You will see bubbles forming on the part, and over time, it will be coated with nickel.
   
   
5. Rinsing:
   After plating, rinse the part with water to remove any residual contamination.

ZINC PLATED AND POLISHED

 

[Oldmanmopar]

To perform DIY zinc plating, you will need to prepare a plating solution, which can be as simple as vinegar and salt or a more complex solution with zinc sulfate and brighteners. Then, clean the metal part thoroughly and set up an electrolytic cell with a power source, zinc anodes (positive electrode), and the part to be plated (negative electrode). After the part is plated, rinse it to complete the process.


When ever you zinc plate an item you don't have to polish it. It will just be gray and never rust. Nickel is darker and copper is dull unless polished

 

[Dana67Dart]

Any testimonials out there, good or bad?

I LOVE Evaporust.

I love Evaporust!

EVAPO-RUST Long Sender Parts.

Post 6
AFB linkage rust removal..

Ballast Resister Restoration

Evaporust

I have also gotten vent doors rusted closed to be free to move by soaking and working the joint little by little. The doors were off due to broken plastic or the rivets were drilled out.


You can buy a 5 gallon bucket for under the 5x $30 price.


$116.00 / 5 gallons free shipping if you are a prime member

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00370N1UG?tag=fabo03-20

It lasts for a very long time if the parts are grease free to start and as much big rust chunks and paint is removed ahead of time. It does not remove good metal, and doesn't hurt other metals like cast AL or pot metal.

I have soaked chromed metals in it and they shine when removed. ( Disclaimer, I'm not recommending it for chrome just sharing my 1st hand knowledge)

My procedure for heavily rusted parts...

1. Clean of all grease, oil, paint, and large rust chunks. (No need to go crazy or media blast, just what you can get off with typical cleaning tools in a parts washer)
2. I have used product in one bucket and new or lightly used in another.
3. I first soak the parts in the used bucket then wash with water and a small amount of hand scrubbing typical of any cleaning procedure
4. Then maybe another round in the used bucket depending on how they came out.
5. Then into the new/ lightly used bucket.
6. Maybe another round in the new / lightly used bucket.
7. I rince the parts off with as hot of water as I can stand and dry the part immediately. Here in northern Colorado it is typically very dry so hot parts dry fast and there is typically no flash rust after.

After the new/lightly used is very dark in color and the old has lost its potency, I discard the old and the formerly new becomes the used.


I have some parts that I did 6+ months ago that after they were dry I put them into gallon baggies and they look like the day I put them in.


Two word of warning:

1. IT WILL REMOVE PAINT, contrary to what they say.
2. Fully submerge the part or a line will appear at the level of the liquid. You can cover the part with cloth and keep the cloth wet with Evaporust but it takes longer

the product is mostly water and I tend to soak the parts for 24 + hours each stage, and the OEM paint from various parts comes off. It's not a paint remover, but has that effect. If you soaked some of these parts in water the same might happen?

 

[Professor Fate]

Go to your local dollar store and buy 5 gallons of white vinegar.
Clean the part the best you can, then submerge and soak overnight.
Molasses works well too, but is a bit messier. Lots of threads on this stuff, do a search.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks OMM, Im going to give it a try.

 

[TurboGLH]

I can't speak to any of the alternatives posted here, besides electrolysis, but evaporust works great.

Spindles as they came off, after the first soak, and masked for paint after the second. I did the backing plates and caliper brackets too, but only have after photos.

 

[72bluNblu]

I know @hemi71x uses evaporust for all of his suspension restoration stuff, he's probably been rebuilding suspension stuff using evaporust for at least a couple decades.

 

[hemi71x]

I know @hemi71x uses evaporust for all of his suspension restoration stuff, he's probably been rebuilding suspension stuff using evaporust for at least a couple decades.

YES, i have.
Can't remember, how i ever learned about Evaporust, but that product works great.
Back in my Air Force days at Mather Air Force Base, in California, when i was an jet aircraft mechanic, i was on good relationship with everyone in all the specialty shops.
All the guys in the "Cleaning Shop" let me use all the equipment in cleaning up everything i had, automobile parts wise.
Sure do miss their giant bead cleaning machine to this day.
And now locally, the employees at the local O'Reilly's store treat me great.
When i need a 5 gallon pail of Evaporust, I'm only charged $90.00 bucks for it, with the military discount.
And they keep it in stock, at the store, because they know i buy it on a regular basis, from time to time, when it looses it's strength.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Can't remember, how i ever learned about Evaporust, but that product works great

Have you had any issues with polished surfaces (bearing surfaces for example) dulling after soaking?

 

[hemi71x]

Have you had any issues with polished surfaces (bearing surfaces for example) dulling after soaking?

Never really paid any attention to anything like that, so no opinion to give you.
But lots if times i just take the wire wheel brush on the end of the electric drill, to really pretty up the parts with a lightly going over.
All that suits me just fine, to my liking.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Never really paid any attention to anything like that, so no opinion to give you

Only reason asked is some parts I soaked once did that. It seemed odd and I never had it happen before

 

[matthon]

Can it be a new battery charger?

Which of the methods should one avoid with combo steel/aluminum wheels?

 

[Dana67Dart]

Which of the methods should one avoid with combo steel/aluminum wheels?

Acids will eat aluminum faster than rust.

In one of my links you can see the carb base that I soaked in Evaporust to get the throttle blades loose, worked perfectly, AL is brighter than the parts that were not dipped

 

[matthon]

Acids will eat aluminum faster than rust.

Will vinegar eat aluminum?
It's so cheap, and I got time to let stuff soak.

I hear molasses works well, and it cheap too.

I used up 2 large buckets of evaporust and was very pleased.
Removed paint that had rust under it, but also exposed paint that I would have otherwise ground off.

I always did all the prep possible first, but the last bucket seemed to quit alot sooner.

Does anyone know what the 'active' ingredient is in these rust removers?

 

[Icetech]

Post #5 is actually cheaper than vinegar, works faster and lasts longer.... not sure of the cost of molassas...

 

[Icetech]

Will vinegar eat aluminum?
It's so cheap, and I got time to let stuff soak.

I hear molasses works well, and it cheap too.

I used up 2 large buckets of evaporust and was very pleased.
Removed paint that had rust under it, but also exposed paint that I would have otherwise ground off.

I always did all the prep possible first, but the last bucket seemed to quit alot sooner.

Does anyone know what the 'active' ingredient is in these rust removers?

the active ingredient in Evaporust is Disodium EDTA

 

[Dave999]

another option is Milk Stone remover

this is a phosphoric acid based cleaner used in the dairy industry for cleaning bulk haulage tanks milking machines and lines.

farmers buy it in big barrels. in the UK at least its cheaper than liquid rust removers
it will be one of those things subjected to local content rules given its intended use
but you can get it in USA

small stuff i use it in the ultrasonic cleaner

big stuff i submerge in a bucket

panels i mix it with household wallpaper paste and food coloring (so i can see where i smeared it) to make a gel i can paint on and cover with polyethene. then use a plastic scourer to take the brown/black gunge it creates off

slow but reasonably effective

electrolysis also works well enough.. also removes enamel paint....
Just need well ventilated space under cover which i don't have much of. can't do it on the workbench next to the grinder and drill, hydrogen goes Bang with considerable force.
I have teenager who likes to drill and grind and doesn't always listen, so i can't leave stuff like that festering away while i'm away...


big plastic tank and i bend up a couple of foot of rebar to sit around the perimeter with a length up 1 corner for my cable to connect to, I just hang the target for de rusting from a length of cheap chain, which acts as you other electrical connection.

but as i say outside on a sunny day or in a draughty barn... not on a bench in the kitchen next to the gas rings...

Dave