Fuel Line Configuration

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BHB4408

BHB4408

BHB4408
Joined
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Edgewood, WA
Finishing the build on my 1972 Dart, with a 512, Trickflow 270 engine. Estimated HP is 750, hoping for a 10.5 car. Configuring my fuel line now. I have -12 line from my Fuel Cell to the MagnaFuel 500 Pump, then -8 line up to my Magnafuel Regulator. The Regulator has -6 ports. I'm following the advice from a great 9-second Demon racer who has helped me with a number of things. I've read on the internet that the dual -6 lines from the regulator to the carb are too small, but my friend has the -6 lines running to his carb on his 9-second car. I'm hoping for some advice from the big block racers out there?

Do I need to get a Regulator with -8 line ports? Or will the -6 lines to the carb work?
 
BHB4408 said:
Finishing the build on my 1972 Dart, with a 512, Trickflow 270 engine. Estimated HP is 750, hoping for a 10.5 car. Configuring my fuel line now. I have -12 line from my Fuel Cell to the MagnaFuel 500 Pump, then -8 line up to my Magnafuel Regulator. The Regulator has -6 ports. I'm following the advice from a great 9-second Demon racer who has helped me with a number of things. I've read on the internet that the dual -6 lines from the regulator to the carb are too small, but my friend has the -6 lines running to his carb on his 9-second car. I'm hoping for some advice from the big block racers out there?

Do I need to get a Regulator with -8 line ports? Or will the -6 lines to the carb work?
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I guess you have what you have. Is that 2 carbs or 1 ?
I yet to have done mine but I'm running -10 up to regulator, 4, -8 for the carbs and a -10 for return.
A2000 aeromotive pump and their regulator.
You can see how it works since you already have the parts.
 
If you use alcohol for fuel you probably need 8an's from the regulator to the carb. With gasoline you can get by with the 6an.
 
tvt59 said:
If you use alcohol for fuel you probably need 8an's from the regulator to the carb. With gasoline you can get by with the 6an.
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Yep. When you look at the needles and seats in the carb, it helps to sober people up regards fuel system requirements.
People might think I am crazy, but it wouldn’t surprise me at all that assuming running gas, a deadheaded Holley black might not get the job done, maybe marginal at that point but maybe not. With -6 feeding the bowls.
At 700 horse( not dyno, track results) I upgraded to a return style deal with bigger everything, and saw zilch on the time slip over that black I took off. Nothing.
Another 50 horse might just prove to be over its limit, but my point is, I guess, fuel systems are often overkill.
 
Thanks for all your replies. The car should be about 3,000 pounds + me at 180. I'm a novice, so I'm just guessing on the HP on my engine, basing it on what local racers tell me. Plus, I figure a little slower compared to what you could run it at. I'm retired, and just looking to have some fun.
 
BHB4408 said:
Thanks for all your replies. The car should be about 3,000 pounds + me at 180. I'm a novice, so I'm just guessing on the HP on my engine, basing it on what local racers tell me. Plus, I figure a little slower compared to what you could run it at. I'm retired, and just looking to have some fun.
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My guess?
-6s out of the regulator should be fine, especially with a return, if the supply TO the regulator is good. Your pump should be plenty good.
And a REAL 750 should get you plenty more than 10.50s. 500 crank got me high nines, but I was about 600lbs lighter than you.
Edit: as others have said, assuming gasoline!
2nd edit: how well the chassis works, and the traction available will have a distinct effect on what it will run.
3rd edit: put it together with what you have. Add a fuel pressure gauge you can see down track, and maybe an O² gauge. If mph is less than it should be, THEN I would consider an upgrade. (I ran -8s on my single quad small block car..... but I don't think I needed em).
 
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I would put an AFR gauge that can store info to a flash card.
 
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