fuse block

[steveh]

All,

I just joined the site today and this is my second post. I'm not much of a mechanic, but have own a 69 Dart GT Covertible for over 20yrs. Just recently got it on the street again after 12yrs. Needless to say, many issues, most small but very annoying.

1) dash lights in-op (except for indicator lights which stay illuminated)
2) fuel guage in-op
3) temp guage in-op

I don't know zip about electrical stuff, but would welcome anyone with patience who would be willing to help me trouble shoot what's goin on.

Many thanks
Steve

 

[FISHBREATH]

Steveh,

I just kinda bumped this up so some of the more experienced electrical guys could see it.

I would first try to determine whether electricity is getting to the light switch and the fuel and temp sending units. A voltmeter between the power-in wire and ground should get you an indication whether voltage is present there. Check all terminals for corrosion, especially in a car that has sat for so long.

Then, you could try the voltmeter at the output pin of the light switch. This could also be done with an ohmeter to check for continuity across the switch while in and out connectors are removed. You should get no voltage across the switch in the open (lights off) condition. Voltage should appear at the out pin with the switch closed (lights on) condition.

The gas tank sending unit is a rheostat with a floating contact. Check for voltage at the voltage "in" connector. If no voltage shows there, the problem is upstream in the electrical wiring circuit. If there is voltage getting to the sending unit, then check the output terminal for voltage. This reading should change as fuel is added and subtracted from the tank, as the float rises and falls. I do not remember which voltage range to use, but it might be unresisted 12v. Do not be surprised if the sending unit is rusted/buggered/gummed up after 12 years.

The water temp sending unit is a bimetallic strip that expands and contracts with change in water temperature. Check for voltage on the input side. If no voltage going in, the problem is upstream in the wiring circuit. Then check for voltage coming out. If no voltage, the sending unit is buggered. You can also check proper function of the temp sending unit in a pot of water on the stove. You can suspend the unit in the warming water, but don't let the unit touch the bottom of the pot. Put a 12v source to the input terminal and hook your voltmeter to the output side. The voltage output should change with increase in water temperature.

I am thinking on the fly here, so I hope some of the more experienced guys can chime in to help.